My 2000 Grand Caravan 3.8L is not charging. The light on the dash is on, and it currently reads 11.7V when running. This condition started while we were on a trip, 500 miles away, and I removed the alternator, had it tested, and replaced the battery connector. I did this by removing the OEM positive terminal and replace it with a zinc (similiar to this https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds). We made it 500 miles home without a problem. The light came back on (and the running voltage was below 12V) days later. I cleaned the ground on the engine block and the light went away. The alternator was tested again during this time. When the light came back on (within 20 miles of driving), I replaced the negative terminal. I'm about to take out the alternator again, but I'm wondering what else it could be? Is it possible that I'm fixing it by removing and reinstalling the alternator and I should just replace it? My vans got almost 300k miles on it.

 

Any alternator that’s producing less than 13.5 volts needs to be replaced. The check needs to be made at the battery positive terminal on the alternator. If you’re getting 13.5 volts at the alternator but not the battery, the cables need to be replaced. If you’re getting less than 13.5 volts at the alternator then it’s junk.

It’s possible a loose connection at the voltage regulator (the other connector at the alternator) is affecting the light on the dash. Spread some dielectric grease on it when you install the new one.

 

So assuming I did something wrong because the problem returned, I kept at the terminals. Looks like the positive terminal was the problem, the wire isn't really holding in the clamp terminal. My van is currently charging but I'm probably going to need a different terminal. The wires are really tight and a lot of the strands have broken off during these exercises. I'm thinking a splice connector at this point.

 

Do you mean the clamp at the battery or the alternator? If the terminal on the alternator is loose (not the nut holding the cable but the lug that the nut threads on to) then you definitely need to replace the alternator.

 

The clamp on the battery terminal. So the old terminal (+) was so corroded that I could bend the metal. I replaced it with a new terminal, but in doing so lost some of the copper out of the wires. I couldn't just cut the terminal off the wire, strip the wires and attach the clamp terminal because I'd be a few inches away from the post, so I tried to remove the terminal and keep the wire intact, but lost some of the wire in the process. I'm figuring a terminal with a could of inches of wire on it and cutting back some of the positive wire to do a splice would fix everything.

The alternator post is good and solid.

 

Ok, but what is the voltage output at the alternator with the engine idling?

It won’t hurt anything to have a few less strands of wire in the clamp - if it’s about 75% or more then you’re fine. Additionally, it’s not going to matter what condition the cables are in if the alternator isn’t charging at the proper voltage.