Will give all that a try tomorrow and let you know the results. Thank you very much.

 

Check the positive cable as well. I know it sounds counterintuitive. I was having a similar problem and replaced a burned negative cable, still wouldn't start.

A guy helped me by using one side of a set of jumper cables (obviously) to connect the positive starter post with the positive battery post, the vehicle started right up. So I knew I had a problem with the positive side of things.

Got to looking around and found the positive cable burned, it was out of sight, hidden below/behind the battery support.

 

The OP mentions in a previous post that he can jump pins 30 & 87 at starter relay (provides power to the solenoid engage circuit) and the engine will crank, it just won’t start. This rules out the primary battery cables as being the problem.

The issue is determining why it won’t crank with the key, so focusing on the control side of the starter circuit should lead to the source of the problem.

 

Not claiming it's the sole problem, and the pos cable is most certainly NOT ruled out. He should check it for damage, that's all I'm suggesting.

 

Noted. However, if the positive cable is damaged as you suggest, the starter wouldn’t be able to pull sufficient amperage to crank the engine. Damaged/corroded battery cables would present with the same symptoms as a weak or dead battery - the engine would crank slowly or not at all.

I’m not saying it’s a terrible idea, but from a diagnostic standpoint, there’s no reason to suspect the primary battery cable at this point. He’s getting power to the accessories and jumping the relay to crank the engine indicates the power supply is sufficient.

 

Just a heads up on what's going on. After talking to my daughter again. She told me while all this was happening, The instrument panel would flicker. The van would smell like rotten eggs, plus at times it would just rev up like it wanted to take off for a few seconds. The blower motor would just work from time to time, plus since the negative battery cable was melted in half ( one reason she needed jumps) the other was while she was driving the negative ends was bound to be touching, then not touching, on and on. Probably playing havoc on the electrically system.
Well just by chance the Wife and I were eating at Arbys later that day and I was telling her what was going on. There was a couple setting next to us and he leaned over and asked if it was a Dodge. Said he retired from Chrysler/Dodge about 10 years ago as a electrical technician and asked if he could help. Well I explained what was going on in detail. The first thing he said was the PCM, Powertrain Control Module wascorrupted or shorted out. Gave me his number if I needed anymore help.
Well I ordered one flashed under her VIN number. Installed it and it fired right up. Runs better then it did before it happen. The only problem not is the Instrument panel is still dead, nothing, lights and gauges. Pain she has no gas gauge. Well after talking to him a second time he said the BCM (Body Control Module) was probable corrupted or shorted out too. Suggested I replace it. Was just asking what you all thought about the BCM. Thanks.