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[4th Gen : 01-07]: Need info on Caliper Mounting bracket bolts

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Old Oct 2, 2019 | 03:04 PM
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Default Need info on Caliper Mounting bracket bolts

2001 GDC 171K front disc and rear drums. It's time again for new Rotors and Pads. So going to replace this weekend. I have two questions. The first, should I use some thread locker on the Mounting bracket bolts? I have some Permatex Red 27100? Is this necessary? Their to be torqued to 125lb. Second why are the TRW brackets and caliper slide bolts designed so crappy? I order up some new brackets just to see if there's any plastic sleeve that goes inside the brackets that mine might be missing. The new ones have nothing, the same as mine. So I always replace the slide bolts and grease the hell out of them. That gets rid of the rattle that comes back after about 5k. Any thoughts? Thanks
 
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Old Oct 2, 2019 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by riverjamie
2001 GDC 171K front disc and rear drums. It's time again for new Rotors and Pads. So going to replace this weekend. I have two questions. The first, should I use some thread locker on the Mounting bracket bolts? I have some Permatex Red 27100? Is this necessary? Their to be torqued to 125lb. Second why are the TRW brackets and caliper slide bolts designed so crappy? I order up some new brackets just to see if there's any plastic sleeve that goes inside the brackets that mine might be missing. The new ones have nothing, the same as mine. So I always replace the slide bolts and grease the hell out of them. That gets rid of the rattle that comes back after about 5k. Any thoughts? Thanks
1) No need for threadlocker if they’re properly torqued. Even if you question the accuracy of your torque wrench, what’s important is that they’re torqued evenly. If there’s excessive rust and corrosion on the bolts, clean them as best you can apply a little oil to the first few threads. I prefer 3-in-1 oil but anything will work - you just don’t want to apply too much.

2) All calipers will eventually start dragging, whether it’s the pins or the pistons. To my knowledge, no brackets have ever been equipped with a plastic sleeve. If you’re having repeated issues with the brakes dragging, maybe look beyond the pins. The pistons can stick and drag due to corrosion and the hoses can sometimes break down and come apart internally. Depending on how they break down, a kind of check valve can be formed inside the hose that allows brake fluid to flow to the caliper when the pedal is pressed, but not allow it to release pressure (or it releases at a very slow rate). This keeps the piston applied even if the pedal isn’t.

The best grease to use for the pins is a silicone base (Syl-Glide, for example) and some manufacturers are beginning to use dielectric grease because it has many of the properties that make it ideal for the heat and moisture caliper pins are exposed to.
 
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