[5th Gen : 08+]: Fuel Delivery Malfunction When Engine Cold - Starts Fine when Hot
#1
Fuel Delivery Malfunction When Engine Cold - Starts Fine when Hot
2011 GC 3.6L. To start when the engine is cold, I must use 2-3 shots of ether into the intake. Stumbles a bit but quickly settles into a 1400 RPM idle and idle gradually drops as it warms up to a smooth 700 RPM. Van drives fine and smooth with normal power. Van will restart easily as long as temp gauge stays above 20% on the gauge (Takes 35 mins to cool this much). Then van won't start after 1 hour cooling - back to the ether.
I have had a loose gas cap indicator - installed new AM cap.
I have gotten a P0457 code - Evap system moderate leak.
I have run seafoam in tank. I pulled the purge solenoid valve and it appears closed (as it should be unpowered)
What next? Check the Vent solenoid valve? Check for water in fuel tank? Run smoke test?
And would these emissions faults cause a low fuel delivery on cold start? Or maybe there are 2 issues here?
Thanks, Doug
I have had a loose gas cap indicator - installed new AM cap.
I have gotten a P0457 code - Evap system moderate leak.
I have run seafoam in tank. I pulled the purge solenoid valve and it appears closed (as it should be unpowered)
What next? Check the Vent solenoid valve? Check for water in fuel tank? Run smoke test?
And would these emissions faults cause a low fuel delivery on cold start? Or maybe there are 2 issues here?
Thanks, Doug
#2
are you sure the problem isn't fuel pressure leakdown? you need to put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see if the fuel pressure is bleeding off...either back to the tank or into the combustion chamber.
when the fuel pressure leaks down...its causes a long crank condition. the fuel rail must prime with fuel from the tank to the injectors...and that takes time. try cycling the key from off to run and leave the key in the run position for 2seconds … the fuel pump will run for 2 seconds each cycle. this will prime the fuel rail. do this 5x and then crank the key to the start position. if it starts up...its either the check valve in the fuel pump or leaking injectors.
when the fuel pressure leaks down...its causes a long crank condition. the fuel rail must prime with fuel from the tank to the injectors...and that takes time. try cycling the key from off to run and leave the key in the run position for 2seconds … the fuel pump will run for 2 seconds each cycle. this will prime the fuel rail. do this 5x and then crank the key to the start position. if it starts up...its either the check valve in the fuel pump or leaking injectors.
#3
#4
8 cycles (2 secs Key ON, then Key OFF) got GC to start and run smooth. Van had 1/3 tank of fuel. Van doesn't get driven much - 1x every 2-3 weeks. I filled tank to the brim and problem seems to be gone. So, I'm guessing there was water around the fuel pump pickup and filling up displaced the water and now actual fuel is moving to the injectors.
A mechanic buddy recommended keep tank full and Stabil. Seems good. Does anyone recommend a different brand of stabilizer?
A mechanic buddy recommended keep tank full and Stabil. Seems good. Does anyone recommend a different brand of stabilizer?