[2nd Gen : 91-95]: 1992 Plymouth grand voyager starts and immediately dies.
#1
1992 Plymouth grand voyager starts and immediately dies.
My 92 voyager is acting like it's not getting enough fuel it will fire up for a half second and immediately die. If i hold the key in on start it will start, run, die, start, run, die, without letting off the key, I have replaced the fuel pump twice now. The filter isn't clogged and it will run just fine on starting fluid, it's like something is preventing the injectors from pulsing... Im at a loss because I do not have a scan tool and I'm used to Subarus so I have no idea where dodge hides **** or how their vehicles even work. If it helps no matter what fuel pump I put in the fuel level reads empty with 10 gallons of gas in the tank. I'm at a loss and this might be the last dodge vehicle I own because of it.
#3
#4
My 92 voyager is acting like it's not getting enough fuel it will fire up for a half second and immediately die. If i hold the key in on start it will start, run, die, start, run, die, without letting off the key, I have replaced the fuel pump twice now. The filter isn't clogged and it will run just fine on starting fluid, it's like something is preventing the injectors from pulsing... Im at a loss because I do not have a scan tool and I'm used to Subarus so I have no idea where dodge hides **** or how their vehicles even work. If it helps no matter what fuel pump I put in the fuel level reads empty with 10 gallons of gas in the tank. I'm at a loss and this might be the last dodge vehicle I own because of it.
1.Put a jumper cable from the block to the negative battery terminal, it's a long shot but spark plugs put out a lot of juice that returns through ground cables from the engine to the body, and the body to the battery and any corrosion diminishes the volume of electricity that can return per period of time. Think of electricity as water and ground path as a storm sewer, spark as heavy rain. Any slowed down ground path means that electric backs up (stops) and can't flow so no spark.
2. Go to auto parts store nearest you and borrow the scan tool (have to leave deposit), and see if they have a fuel pump tester of some sort (2 types of fuel test, pressure is easy test, and volume/time delivered @ PSI is a complete test. DO NOT TEST VOLUME NEAR A SOURCE OF SPARK!!!!).
3. Check your air box for a mouse nest because they do that **** in winter. You might not be getting air. Check your tail pipe for exhust coming out while you crank and make sure a critter hasn't died in your exhaust and plugged it.
4. Throw holy water at the van and shout ancient Nordic words at it.
5. Pull the spark plugs and make sure they are gapped correctly and not soaked with gas/flooded.
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jkeaton (01-27-2020)
#5
If the vehicle is actually turning over (combustion) then fuel, spark, and air are all there for at least a moment. If cranking it can combust more than once then fuel is being delivered again and again.
1.Put a jumper cable from the block to the negative battery terminal, it's a long shot but spark plugs put out a lot of juice that returns through ground cables from the engine to the body, and the body to the battery and any corrosion diminishes the volume of electricity that can return per period of time. Think of electricity as water and ground path as a storm sewer, spark as heavy rain. Any slowed down ground path means that electric backs up (stops) and can't flow so no spark.
2. Go to auto parts store nearest you and borrow the scan tool (have to leave deposit), and see if they have a fuel pump tester of some sort (2 types of fuel test, pressure is easy test, and volume/time delivered @ PSI is a complete test. DO NOT TEST VOLUME NEAR A SOURCE OF SPARK!!!!).
3. Check your air box for a mouse nest because they do that **** in winter. You might not be getting air. Check your tail pipe for exhust coming out while you crank and make sure a critter hasn't died in your exhaust and plugged it.
4. Throw holy water at the van and shout ancient Nordic words at it.
5. Pull the spark plugs and make sure they are gapped correctly and not soaked with gas/flooded.
1.Put a jumper cable from the block to the negative battery terminal, it's a long shot but spark plugs put out a lot of juice that returns through ground cables from the engine to the body, and the body to the battery and any corrosion diminishes the volume of electricity that can return per period of time. Think of electricity as water and ground path as a storm sewer, spark as heavy rain. Any slowed down ground path means that electric backs up (stops) and can't flow so no spark.
2. Go to auto parts store nearest you and borrow the scan tool (have to leave deposit), and see if they have a fuel pump tester of some sort (2 types of fuel test, pressure is easy test, and volume/time delivered @ PSI is a complete test. DO NOT TEST VOLUME NEAR A SOURCE OF SPARK!!!!).
3. Check your air box for a mouse nest because they do that **** in winter. You might not be getting air. Check your tail pipe for exhust coming out while you crank and make sure a critter hasn't died in your exhaust and plugged it.
4. Throw holy water at the van and shout ancient Nordic words at it.
5. Pull the spark plugs and make sure they are gapped correctly and not soaked with gas/flooded.