[4th Gen : 01-07]: Power Steering pinion noise
I have a 2003 Dodge Caravan 2.4L and I thought it was a bad inner tie rod, but it seems to be the power steering pinion. Sorry for my ignorance, but is this something that should be replaced ASAP. I am DIY person and I have done all the repairs myself. I have never dealt with this power steering knocking sound. I dont see a leak of power steering fluid.
It doesn't do while driving, but if I turn the wheel while the vehicle is still... That's when the noise happen. Can someone confirm the pinion is the issue and how severe is it? Thank you.. I posted a video on YouTube and here is the link
https://youtu.be/piflVJZvpW0
It doesn't do while driving, but if I turn the wheel while the vehicle is still... That's when the noise happen. Can someone confirm the pinion is the issue and how severe is it? Thank you.. I posted a video on YouTube and here is the link
https://youtu.be/piflVJZvpW0
Last edited by Danny1976; Feb 21, 2020 at 05:12 AM.
I just wanted someone to confirm that this is a bad Rack and Pinion. My wife drives this minivan and I just want to make sure it's safe for her to drive until I can order the part.
I don't know how severe it is and just wanted to double check.
I don't know how severe it is and just wanted to double check.
The only other thing to check would be the steering column u-joints. I’m not sure exactly where the column passes through the firewall, there’s a u-joint just above the rack and a coupler right behind the column in the cabin.
Turn the wheel back and forth just like you were in the video to check for play.
Turn the wheel back and forth just like you were in the video to check for play.
I bought a remanufactured rack and pinion and accidentally crossed threaded the return line. I believe I did, since the pressure line went in easy and tightened. But the return line threaded in, but when tightening ... it was way to hard and the line was loose.
I returned that one and got another rack and pinion. This time I really made sure it threaded easy before tightening.... But as soon as I started to thread by hand until I no longer could.... I tried tightening it and it was hard, so I stopped immediately. I was thinking that the threads in the rack and pinion are aluminum, but the return line male connection was fine because it seems like it was made of steel. But now I am thinking that the threads on the male return line may have been damaged.
Can the threads on the male return line get damaged when cross threading into the aluminum? That's the only thing I can think of. I am going to buy a new return line, since it's the only thing that makes sense. This remanufactured rack and pinion couldn't have a different thread pattern. The pressure line goes in fine.
I returned that one and got another rack and pinion. This time I really made sure it threaded easy before tightening.... But as soon as I started to thread by hand until I no longer could.... I tried tightening it and it was hard, so I stopped immediately. I was thinking that the threads in the rack and pinion are aluminum, but the return line male connection was fine because it seems like it was made of steel. But now I am thinking that the threads on the male return line may have been damaged.
Can the threads on the male return line get damaged when cross threading into the aluminum? That's the only thing I can think of. I am going to buy a new return line, since it's the only thing that makes sense. This remanufactured rack and pinion couldn't have a different thread pattern. The pressure line goes in fine.
Last edited by Danny1976; Mar 5, 2020 at 07:41 PM.
The threads on the return line fitting could’ve been damaged when removing it from the original rack. I’ve also replaced plenty of PS lines that were difficult to thread just because the line itself can pull/push against the fitting, so even though the threads are lined up, it just won’t turn far by hand. It can help to work the line back and forth as you’re turning the fitting.
Additionally, don’t expect the fitting to thread all the way in - it’s not uncommon for the return line to have a couple of threads still exposed after it’s seated. This could just be the difference between the original rack and the replacement.
Clean and inspect the threads on the rack carefully to make sure they’re not damaged before trying to install the new return line. A little oil (or PS fluid) on the new fitting should also help.
Additionally, don’t expect the fitting to thread all the way in - it’s not uncommon for the return line to have a couple of threads still exposed after it’s seated. This could just be the difference between the original rack and the replacement.
Clean and inspect the threads on the rack carefully to make sure they’re not damaged before trying to install the new return line. A little oil (or PS fluid) on the new fitting should also help.
The threads on the return line fitting could’ve been damaged when removing it from the original rack. I’ve also replaced plenty of PS lines that were difficult to thread just because the line itself can pull/push against the fitting, so even though the threads are lined up, it just won’t turn far by hand. It can help to work the line back and forth as you’re turning the fitting.
Additionally, don’t expect the fitting to thread all the way in - it’s not uncommon for the return line to have a couple of threads still exposed after it’s seated. This could just be the difference between the original rack and the replacement.
Clean and inspect the threads on the rack carefully to make sure they’re not damaged before trying to install the new return line. A little oil (or PS fluid) on the new fitting should also help.
Additionally, don’t expect the fitting to thread all the way in - it’s not uncommon for the return line to have a couple of threads still exposed after it’s seated. This could just be the difference between the original rack and the replacement.
Clean and inspect the threads on the rack carefully to make sure they’re not damaged before trying to install the new return line. A little oil (or PS fluid) on the new fitting should also help.
I noticed that it doesn't thread all the way in. But after threading it by hand a couple of turns.... It requires a lot of force and there are plenty of more threading to do compared to the other line.
I rather try another return line than to damage a second rack and pinion. This repair has been a pain, specially when you are laying on the ground with a small room to attach the lines. I think this has been one of the most difficult repair with all the stuff I had to remove and the tight space. It's almost as bad as changing all 3 mounts engine mounts and transmission mount, which was a pain.
I think changing the timing belt and water pump was easier.
Last edited by Danny1976; Mar 6, 2020 at 06:35 AM.
Got another rack and pinion from Advanced Auto. Also ordered a new return line, because the thread was damaged. Was able to finish the job, car alignment and everything is working fine without any leaks. Many obstacles, but it feels good once your car is back in working conditions. Thanks everyone for helping me out.





