[5th Gen : 08+]: Stuck rear caliper frame bolt, how to remove it?
Stuck rear caliper frame bolt, how to remove it?
I'm trying to replace the rear calipers on my 2010 grand caravan, but the upper 18mm bolt that holds the caliper frame on is supremely stuck. I can't get an impact in there to get it off that way, and I tried using 3 swivel joints and that just made the joints hot lol.
I don't have a breaker bar and I'm not sure if one will fit in the wheel well either, they only swivel 180* so I don't think it will get outside of the wheel well area for me to break it loose.... I also don't have anything more than a hand held propane torch, so not sure if that would be enough heat.
any other ideas?
I don't have a breaker bar and I'm not sure if one will fit in the wheel well either, they only swivel 180* so I don't think it will get outside of the wheel well area for me to break it loose.... I also don't have anything more than a hand held propane torch, so not sure if that would be enough heat.
any other ideas?
Captain
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 553
Likes: 64
https://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bo...-grip-base-set
This set is available at many tool and hardware stores - I recommend Irwin specifically because I’ve tried the cheaper ones and they just don’t work as well.
Tap it on with a hammer for a good initial bite, then you can use a 3/8 breaker bar or a 1” socket and 1/2” breaker bar to fit over the extractor.
The caliper bolts should be available at a parts store - Dorman makes them. If not, a hardware store should have replacements - metric grade 9.8 or 10.9 will work fine.
This set is available at many tool and hardware stores - I recommend Irwin specifically because I’ve tried the cheaper ones and they just don’t work as well.
Tap it on with a hammer for a good initial bite, then you can use a 3/8 breaker bar or a 1” socket and 1/2” breaker bar to fit over the extractor.
The caliper bolts should be available at a parts store - Dorman makes them. If not, a hardware store should have replacements - metric grade 9.8 or 10.9 will work fine.
https://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bo...-grip-base-set
This set is available at many tool and hardware stores - I recommend Irwin specifically because I’ve tried the cheaper ones and they just don’t work as well.
Tap it on with a hammer for a good initial bite, then you can use a 3/8 breaker bar or a 1” socket and 1/2” breaker bar to fit over the extractor.
The caliper bolts should be available at a parts store - Dorman makes them. If not, a hardware store should have replacements - metric grade 9.8 or 10.9 will work fine.
This set is available at many tool and hardware stores - I recommend Irwin specifically because I’ve tried the cheaper ones and they just don’t work as well.
Tap it on with a hammer for a good initial bite, then you can use a 3/8 breaker bar or a 1” socket and 1/2” breaker bar to fit over the extractor.
The caliper bolts should be available at a parts store - Dorman makes them. If not, a hardware store should have replacements - metric grade 9.8 or 10.9 will work fine.
why would I use bolt extractors when there's nothing wrong with the bolt, it's just stuck and I can't get anything like a breaker bar in the wheel well to be able to get some force on it.
Captain
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 553
Likes: 64
Sorry for misunderstanding - I tend to automatically associate stuck bolts with being rounded off because it happens so frequently at work.
A few other options - don’t forget safety gear as necessary. Also, if you haven’t already, remove the caliper from the bracket to gain clearance.
1) Try tightening the bolt first. It seems counterintuitive, but sometimes that helps get them moving, then you can use spray lube and work it back and forth to get it the rest of the way.
2) Use a box end wrench and a 2 pound hammer. Hold the box end only tight against the bolt so your hand is clear of the wrench handle.
3) With the caliper off the bracket, Remove the bottom bolt from the bracket and use a pry bar against the edge of the rotor to work the bottom end of the bracket away from the rotor, then push the bracket back down towards the rotor (light tapping with a hammer won’t hurt if you can’t push it back down). This might be enough to get the bolt loosened, then put the bottom bolt back in to keep the bracket steady, spray lube on the bolt, and work it back and forth.
A few other options - don’t forget safety gear as necessary. Also, if you haven’t already, remove the caliper from the bracket to gain clearance.
1) Try tightening the bolt first. It seems counterintuitive, but sometimes that helps get them moving, then you can use spray lube and work it back and forth to get it the rest of the way.
2) Use a box end wrench and a 2 pound hammer. Hold the box end only tight against the bolt so your hand is clear of the wrench handle.
3) With the caliper off the bracket, Remove the bottom bolt from the bracket and use a pry bar against the edge of the rotor to work the bottom end of the bracket away from the rotor, then push the bracket back down towards the rotor (light tapping with a hammer won’t hurt if you can’t push it back down). This might be enough to get the bolt loosened, then put the bottom bolt back in to keep the bracket steady, spray lube on the bolt, and work it back and forth.
Professional
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 211
Likes: 25
You can hit it with an acetylene torch to break the rust bonds. You only need to heat the hole circumference long enough that the metal expands a bit, then loosen the bolt quickly before it cools. This will break all the rust molecules bonding the bolt to the hole.
Be careful of the gas tank. Perhaps put a fan at your back blowing any potential fumes away. But mechanics do this all the time.
Be careful of the gas tank. Perhaps put a fan at your back blowing any potential fumes away. But mechanics do this all the time.