I can't specify on Dodge/Chrysler scanners because the dealership doesn't allow anyone in their shop you can only see from a window overlooking the shop beside the service desk. What I can tell you is that their technicians use a laptop what look like a Panasonic Toughbook I would expect it to be more specific and advance to their brands for the dealership shops than the generic versions.

I also own a VW and I can tell that their version are highly sophisticated as the dealership allows people who want to go in the shop and watch what being done to their cars. They also uses laptops which are a Toughbooks as soon as they power up they show the data buss link schematics and their status. Their system even allow a direct link from the vehicle pcm to the VW technical experts at their head office in case the local tech has problems identifying or has unusual issues the experts can communicate and take over control via link and sort out the problem

 

Sound like this could be WIN module issue that it stop sending the ignition code to the pcm causing it shut down engine control and kill the engine. I watch your video again and it clearly shows the security light flashing meaning an invalid key fob ignition code was use triggering the anti-theft control on.

 

Thanks Mopar340
That,s what I was thinking. I am not sure if other modules may need to be changed at the same time as the WIN? ( possible all coded together)
I will research the WIN replacement. I do wish I could find a Dodge certified guy or gal over here to moonlight with me.
Thanks again for your reply.

 

You could go to a good reputable shop that specialize in auto electrics probably cheaper than a dealer they'll be able to pinpoint the problem and if it's your WIN module causing the issue and need of replacing it will have to be reprogrammed to the vehicle and match the code in your key fobs. Anyway I would start with the WIN module and take it from there someone with a strong background or specialize in auto electrical system would your best option.

 

Thanks Mopar340

 

I am still chipping away at this in my spare time. I bought the Autel MS906BT and a cheap lab scope. I decided to buy a new win module as the one in the van was not the most current version. The issue simply went away before the new win arrived. I replaced the WIN and got it coded along with a new key. About a month later the van died again. This time a got it home after two more stalls on the way. I removed the DASH, HVAC , ORC nodes and RADIO. I got (ABS U0100, U0401) ( CGW U0100) (WCM U0100, U1197). Back probing A15 (can-) and A16 (can+) at the TIPM and PCM C1 (33 and 57) gave me 2.24v and 2.68v. I assume That was all coming from the TIPM as those two wires are isolated from PCM to TIPM. I took the TIPM apart, it all looks new and all the relays click. I checked all the CAN C lines with the DMM and lab scope. All look ok to my untrained eye except that the readings from the DLC and TIPM are Different than the rest of the CAN C BUS, 1.93v and 3.02v.While it is still in range it is not par. . An other thing is that if I short ANY CAN C wire to ground (not just the PCM wires) the comms crash on both lines. No Single line service. The next day it suddenly fixed itself again before I could put my finger on the issue. I cleared all the codes and drove it for about 30 minutes. No CODES,LOL Looking at the PCM I unwrapped the harness and checked the ground splice and frame stud. I get 0 ohms when testing all three power wires. Removing fuse M28 ( PCM B+) seems to duplicate the issue and I get only the same fault codes as when the van dies. The diagram from ALLDATA shows only one external relay in that line and I have swapped it many times. I am thinking Plug and play PCM. I took the PCM apart and it all looks and smell good. Any thoughts. I really want to find this issue and I am enjoying the learning adventure.

Thanks for listening,

Lee

 

There’s quite a bit to cover here so I’ll do my best to keep it brief but informative.

1) All the vehicle communication circuits work using bias voltages and multi-plexing (being able to send and receive messages at the same time). Each module is capable of setting its own bias voltage which allows other modules on the network to ignore messages they do not need. So at any given time, hundreds of messages (at different bias voltages) are moving through the network and your meter and scope are only going to display the average of those voltages (unless you manually set them for different sampling rates). I’m not saying the readings you have aren’t useful, it’s just important to remember they’re only giving you a glance at what the comm circuit is doing - they’re not telling you everything.

2) Shorting any communication circuit (not just CAN C) to ground will always result in some, if not all, of the network going down (depends on how the network is set up). It’s a basic principle of operation - electricity always takes the path of least resistance - if there’s a direct path to ground, that’s the route it will take.

3) I’m not clear on why you removed modules (nodes) from the network and then checked for codes. It shouldn’t be surprising that you’re getting communication codes from other modules if several of them are unhooked.

4) The best chance you have to isolate the source of the communication disruption is by clearing all the codes in every module you can access with your scan tool, then wait and see which codes return after the no start occurs again.

5) With the battery unhooked, check the resistance on pins 6 & 14 of the OBD connector - it should be 60 ohms +/- 0.5 ohms.

 

Thanks so much for your reply.
I removed the nodes because I removed the dash to check coms at the win and airbag.
I am at the point now that I will just have to drive it to failure and pray it won't cause a major traffic jam, or worse, when it does.
I did check AllData again and I see that there is a relay controller on the Tipm circuit board for one of the PCM power lines.
Of all that I have done to date It seems like a power issue at the pcm and not a comms issue.
Anyway........... I will try to remember to post back once I make progress.


Lee.