Replace the engine in my 2010 Caravan with @ 180000 km and replaced with identical engine from a 2009 w/3.3L and 162000 km replacement engine doe snot start

We swapped all the following from my van's engine to the donor: injectors (along with new o-rings), all sensors with exception to the one on rear manifold and the oil pressure sending unit, brand new water pump, new crank and new cam sensor, used wiring harnesses from my existing van.

When we turn ignition to run you hear the fuel pump pressure up, when you crank the van over it spins over great when you release key to run it stays cranking over unless you physically turn key to off. (I do not think it did that before do not recall it ever doing that)

We do not get any codes when cranking. No spark when cranking over and no gas on plugs when spinning so no gas - yet fuel pump primes when key turned to on.....

The engine prior to being removed also did not have any codes - only reason we changed it was head gasket was pooched.

We double checked the following grounds and have cleaned and reconnected them at least twice:
- the one to the computer to subframe.
- the one on the motor mount top passenger side
- the ground to the engine above the starter

People have mentioned to me GROUND GROUND and GROUND - did I miss a ground?

 

Does the 2009 have "Tipstart" where the engine cranks itself until it starts? It's a really dumb technology if you ask me, but it could explain the continued cranking. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/4th-gen...tip-start.html

Have you verified that
1) Valve timing and ignition timing are both correct?
2) you have fuel actually making it out of injectors?
3) no plugs in the air intake? (like you put a sock or a plastic bag over the intake while putting it in so nothing dropped in there then when you cranked it you sucked in the sock or bag -- this happens too often :-)
4) You have spark all the way to the plug and that the plug gap is good.

 

You can use a decent gauge jumper cable (10, or a 12 using both cables), or both cables from the block and head, both to the negative battery terminal and that will provide many times more ground than all the straps combined. That will eliminate that concern.

 

-have not verified timing - assumption is that it is because donor motor was a runner from recycler....again assuming lol
-do not think fuel coming out of injectors as plugs are dry after spinning it over lots
-air intake clear.
-plug gap is good pulled and double checked. No spark

:-)

 

Will do the ground strap tomorrow and let you know! Thanks for the wisdom!

 

Ok I added two more grounds from battery - 1 going to the engine block and the other going to the frame terminal stud on front subframe below top rad hose driver side.

Still no go!

 

I've never done a spark check but I've heard you have to ground the body of the plug because that's how the spark returns to the battery. this video confirms that.

If you have no spark you have to solve that first because it's dangerous to check fuel injectors without spark as gas will EXPLODE if it's been evaporating through your valves, cylinder, and exhaust with no spark to burn it away.

To check fuel you need to check for voltage at the injector while cranking: , if you don't want to invest in a noid light you can use a test light
If you have voltage at the injector and still dry plugs swap the injectors from the bad engine if you still have it.