I’ve been wanting to get this write up done in one post but I just haven’t had time, so I’m breaking it up to relieve the time needed. I’ll try to post over the next 2 or 3 days to complete it as quickly as possible.

Around Christmas last year - on my 2016 R/T - ice caused the left sliding door to stick shut. I didn’t pull twice on the handle to put it in manual mode, so as I pulled on the door to open it, the motor also engaged. The door opened but this retaining clip for the regulator broke...



I tried to find a new clip because I thought I’d be able to replace it and be OK, but not only would finding just the clip prove difficult as it’s part of the regulator assembly, I’d of been wrong even if I did find one. The cable had gotten pulled back into the housing and was kinked and twisted every which way (accidentally deleted the pic or I’d post it) so even if I had managed to correct it and install a new clip, the regulator probably wouldn’t have worked right for very long.

Of course, being the holidays, most online stores weren’t promising delivery until after the new year (as if it were meant to be one last f*** you from 2020), so I bit the bullet and picked one up from the local dealer. If you’re curious, the total was about $530 after tax. The pic below is the new assembly.




The first steps are to remove the trim around the B pillar (must be done in order to pull up the carpet and access all the mounting hardware for the regulator) and remove the interior trim panel on the sliding door.

My van had a small tray and sill plate to remove by the driver seat and a sill plate inside the sliding door. These need to be removed so the door seals (note red arrow) can be pulled off the B pillar as they hold the pillar trim in place.



(Not sure why this happens, but if you mentally rotate this picture 90* to the right, you’ll see it’s just the B pillar with the trim removed).



The sliding door trim panel isn’t too difficult to remove, but I do recommend using trim panel removal tools (aka and henceforth referred to as “trim sticks”) - usually a cheap set is available at most parts and tool stores and will work well. Also, the door has to be closed, so fold down or remove the seat for adequate working room. A good work light will help immensely.

First remove the trim piece at the rear of the door by pulling or prying it straight towards the front. It is difficult to remove, but use care in where you pry and the trim piece won’t break.



The bezel around the handle comes off next (pops off), then there’s just one (T15 or T20) torx screw to remove (arrow) under the bezel. Once that screw is out, the rest of the panel is held on with push type retaining rivets.



Start at one of the lower corners of the panel, working up to the window, then across the bottom and up the other side. Instead of trying to slowly pry the panel off, insert the trim stick as close to one of the rivets as possible (if not around it) and quickly “pop” the rivet loose. If you’ve ever removed a CV axle, the motion is similar.

Do be careful, however, because mistakes can still happen. I cracked the panel because I thought I had the trim stick positioned properly but I was wrong.

(Again, mentally rotate this pic 90*)


I’ll continue this tomorrow.

 

(Once again, some of the pics rotated somehow - not sure why this is happening since in my phone albums it shows them being in the correct orientation.)

The next step is to remove the front lower latch/roller bracket, marked by the arrow.



The clip (red arrow) is secured by a T30 (possibly T40) bolt. It has blue thread lock on it from the factory, so if needed, apply a new coat to the threads during reassembly. Also note the routing of the wire harness (blue arrow).



With the clip removed, there are (2) 10 mm nuts that secure the latch which holds the door in the open position. This latch can be engaged during removal, but once the latch is separated from the bracket, the door will naturally want to drift towards the closed position, so a secondary method to hold it open is needed. Position the latch out of the way.



I opted to use a bungee cord between the top roller bracket and luggage rack.



You’ll also need to unplug the connector and remove the wiring harness for the sliding door lock and window controls. It’s not necessary for the hinge removal but will be necessary for removing the regulator.




With the clip, latch and harness out of the way, support the bottom edge of the sliding door with a Jack, Jack stand, or equivalent; then the roller bracket can be removed. I used a door hoist but that’s because when I initially read through the procedure, I somehow interpreted that complete door removal was necessary so I borrowed the hoist from work.




To be continued...

 

Ok - here’s the final steps.

NOTE: It’s recommended by Dodge (and a wise practice in general) that the negative battery cable is disconnected before any work on the electrical system is performed. Although this repair doesn’t specifically call for wiring repairs (unless needed), the sliding door control module will have to be disconnected during this procedure. It also requires disconnecting and removal of the side impact sensor.

To prevent the potential for module damage or accidental air bag deployment, disconnecting the negative battery cable is highly recommended.

Plus, disconnecting the battery will prevent the battery from draining as the door latch switch may continuously activate the interior lights.

Before the regulator can be removed, the wiring harness for the door has to be repositioned. There’s a clip for the chain-like harness conduit that needs to be released from the bracket - the red arrow points to the clip - once released the conduit can be removed and the harness positioned out of the way.



In total there’s 7 nuts and screws to remove - the pictures below show their locations.



The reason the 2 screws marked by blue arrows don’t have to be removed is because they retain the motor to the regulator and it’s replaced as a unit.



This nut is why the B pillar trim had to be removed.



With all the fasteners removed, the regulator can be removed. Pull the rear end out first to access the sliding door control module. The module can be disconnected on either end (see pic) but use careful movement to prevent damage to the module.



Before installing the new regulator, inspect the door module connectors (both sides) for signs of corrosion and loose terminals - clean and repair as necessary.



Installation is the reverse of removal, with the curved (forward) end being inserted first. Although programming isn’t required, when the battery is reconnected, the door may automatically open or close to relearn the positions - this is normal and shouldn’t be of concern unless it continues to open and close without being commanded to.

Torque specifications (divide by 12 to get ft*lbs)

Regulator retaining nuts 80 in*lbs

Side impact sensor 80 in*lbs

Hold open latch to roller bracket nuts 90 in*lbs

Cable clip (on top of roller bracket) 130 in*lbs

Roller bracket to door 96 in*lbs