[5th Gen : 08+]: 3.6L Cam Bearing Cap Bolt Heli-Coil Size?
#1
3.6L Cam Bearing Cap Bolt Heli-Coil Size?
I would appreciate some guidance on how to purchase the correct size heli-coil kit for a cam bearing cap bolt for a 2012 GC SXT 3.6L. I don't even know where to begin looking for what size it is. Previously, during the most recent rocker arm change, while tightening with a torque wrench, a cam bearing cap bolt felt as though it was going to strip if I continued with the torque wrench, so I stopped a little early. Although I may not need a heli-coil kit at all, it's vital I do have it if I do strip the bolt during a soon-to-be rocker arm replacement.
For anyone who does these rocker arm repairs regularly, have you come across these cam bearing cap bolts having any issues standing up to being properly torqued?
Lastly, while I have the opportunity, should I replace the cam phasers and oil control valves under preventative maintenance; van has 130K miles.
For anyone who does these rocker arm repairs regularly, have you come across these cam bearing cap bolts having any issues standing up to being properly torqued?
Lastly, while I have the opportunity, should I replace the cam phasers and oil control valves under preventative maintenance; van has 130K miles.
Last edited by teets.18; 05-05-2021 at 12:20 PM.
#2
If the bolt you are talking about is item 3 in the diagram here www.factorychryslerparts.com, it is an M6x1x32.
The following users liked this post:
teets.18 (05-07-2021)
#4
So, I went to change the phaser on the RH head and the very last cam bearing cap, which is an M6 bolt w/ a torx head, stripped at the head in the torx design. These bolts felt way tighter than 106 inch lbs, or whatever it called for. I've heard of cutting a slot in the head, then using a flat blad design to back out a stripped torx, but I'd bet that would just snap the slot socket, or just rotate and lift out of the bolt as torque is applied. Frustrating...
#5
So, I went to change the phaser on the RH head and the very last cam bearing cap, which is an M6 bolt w/ a torx head, stripped at the head in the torx design. These bolts felt way tighter than 106 inch lbs, or whatever it called for. I've heard of cutting a slot in the head, then using a flat blad design to back out a stripped torx, but I'd bet that would just snap the slot socket, or just rotate and lift out of the bolt as torque is applied. Frustrating...