Any of you tried to replace plugs? I have the 3.3L. How hard is it? I know the front three should be a cake walk, but what about the back three? What's the best/easiest way to change them out?

 

It takes time but can be done by the home mechanic. Put it up on car ramps or jack stands and let the engine cool. You have to lay on you back under the vehical and reach up the tunnel between the exhaust and the firewall. A pair of locking needle nose pliers is useful to break the plug wire loose from the plug. You should have a spark plug socket with a rubber grommet inside to hold the plug. A short extension is needed on your ratchet for some of the plugs. Make sure you use anti-seize on the plug threads and dielectric grease inside of the boots to keep them from sticking if the plugs need replaced again. Use an air compressor to blow out the dirt from the spark plug hole before removing the plugs. I found a 4 inch piece of tubing on the end of the air nozzle works well to get the air into the hole.

If you don't have a spark plug socket, wrap a piece of paper around the spark plug and stick it into your deep well socket when you intstall the new plugs. This will keep the plug from falling out of the socket. You almost need to have the plug in the socket to get the threads started. The extra length of the socket gives you just enough reach. If you try to put the plug in with your fingers, it will slip and fall to some place that you can't see and can barely reach.

 

Spark plug replacement is a lot easier to do from the top.You can remove the intake manifold and have full access to the back of the engine.

 

True, but that is a lot more work. If you are going to the effort of taking off the intake manifold, I would also look at replacing plug wires, upper oxygen sensor, and rear valve cover gasket also (if leaking). It would also be a good time to remove the throttle body from the intake and give it a good cleaning. Unless you have short and/or thick arms, you can reach between the exhaust and the firewall. Admittedly, it isn't easy working on the plugs from underneath because you can't see what you are doing, but there is a lot less to take off and try to get back together.

 

On a 1996 GC, "all I had to do" was remove the wipers and cowling... that gave me complete access to the top of the engine.

 

I'm not a Dodge guy and I just did the full set on a 1994 Grand SE. You have to have little arms from the top which I do. The last one took me about 20 mins by the time I replaced it and the wires. Good luck!

 

ASH has the easy and less hassel method of getting the job done right. Up on ramps, chuck the rear wheels for safety and then creeper under or place a big flattened carboard box down to lay on. A good socket set with a swivel/universal for the plugs is very helpful. Even for the plug next to the PS pump is a plus.

I've changed both the 3.0L and 3.3L plugs this way for years. If you need to see the plugs, a simple light and small handheld garage shop mirror will do the job. BUT, once the socket is over the plug, there's really no need for looking at something that is covered anyways.

If you have and CRC-Power Lube or spray lubrication to free rusty parts, then pop off those rubber boots and soak the plugs for 10 mins. Remember where those rubbers boots go.

Removing the intake manifold isn't the easiest answer if the parts are rusting. Besides, you'll end up spending money on a new gasket, else the manifold will leak and hiss. This could throw things off some for the vehicle's computer managing the fuel delivery.

Stev