Headers: JBA ?
I don't think JBA would be able to produce and sell headers that are hitting the frame. Those headers are just a little bigger than the stock exhaust manifolds. My LT headers have a better chance of hitting something but they only scrape on speed bumps if I don't pay attention. 
If you haven't looked into split lock bolts please do. You’ll be glad you got them when you do not have to go back and re-torque the bolts.

If you haven't looked into split lock bolts please do. You’ll be glad you got them when you do not have to go back and re-torque the bolts.
Look at Breslin's bolts (Part #'s: Chromemoly 008-027 Stainless Steel 608-027).
I slept on the JBA hitting frame thing and believe 440nix could be partially right. It's an install problem w/the exhaust pipe, not the header, hitting the frame (it's impossible for the shorty headers to hit the frame... they are too short <=pun intended
).
If you don't watch clearance when bolting up the exhaust pipes there are several places it will hit the frame. Midpipe near the bend on the engine side, just past the X pipe on the cross member and at the end where it bends near the gas tank drivers side.
To work around the issue above: prior to tightening up the pipe clamps or welding check to see if anything is hitting, if needed use a small piece of 1/2" or 3/4" material (plywood works good) to block the pipe away from contact areas. Once the entire exhaust is tight - pull the blocks out. 99.9% of the time you will need to do this at the X pipe on the cross member.
Are you doing the install TorRedOrv0436?
I slept on the JBA hitting frame thing and believe 440nix could be partially right. It's an install problem w/the exhaust pipe, not the header, hitting the frame (it's impossible for the shorty headers to hit the frame... they are too short <=pun intended
). If you don't watch clearance when bolting up the exhaust pipes there are several places it will hit the frame. Midpipe near the bend on the engine side, just past the X pipe on the cross member and at the end where it bends near the gas tank drivers side.
To work around the issue above: prior to tightening up the pipe clamps or welding check to see if anything is hitting, if needed use a small piece of 1/2" or 3/4" material (plywood works good) to block the pipe away from contact areas. Once the entire exhaust is tight - pull the blocks out. 99.9% of the time you will need to do this at the X pipe on the cross member.
Are you doing the install TorRedOrv0436?
Holy Crap!!
What a bitch they were to install. Took 6 hours and 1 knuckle. But they sound great and the low end really improved. I'll get some times and let you guys know the improvement.
Mango, thanks again for the install notes, they were a big help.
Orv
What a bitch they were to install. Took 6 hours and 1 knuckle. But they sound great and the low end really improved. I'll get some times and let you guys know the improvement.
Mango, thanks again for the install notes, they were a big help.
Orv
yes i have the entire set up on my daytona jba shortys hiflow cat and catback all jba .it sounds absolutly awesome some drone though upto about 2000 rp, with the superchip it stops at about 1800 rpm.i havent noticed any frame rubbing.i will mention on the install dont forget the dipstick bolt its longer and the spacer is need to install it .after i completed my install i realized the dipstick was off and just like that back underneath .it does sound awesome though , i recommend getting the sivler ceramic coated set.
Sweet, that's the reaction that headers should bring.Glad your happy w/them and you should be for a long time to come.
Look at high flow CATs for a future mod, it's a great hp complement for the headers and much easier to install


