headlight motors
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Joined: Jul 2007
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headlight motors
Both headlights won't rotate, so I assume it's a circuit problem, but my manualhas no wiring diagram for the headlight motors. Are they controlled by relays? If so, where are they located? It's an '89.
Joined: Mar 2007
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RE: 89 Daytona: headlights won't rotate
If they make a noise when you try to turn them on but don't move, then your motors are probably shot. They have a little **** on top of the motors you can rotate to bring them up manually. The relays are located on the driver side of the engine bay in a black box with a clip-on lid. Not sure how they are controlled. Hope this helps.
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Joined: Jul 2007
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headlight module
If you want tocheck your motors while they are still in the vehicle, get a 6-volt lantern battery. The "lantern" battery is just one of the large 6-volt rectangular batteries that you use in a large flashlight. The kind with spring terminals. Here's how:
1. go under the headlight unit and remove the female connector end from from the male electric connector that goes to the motor
2.locate and clean the two metal pins inside the male end of the connector that goes TO the motor
3. use an alligator clip lead to connect either of the6 volt lantern batteryterminalsto either connector pin.
4. use another alligator cliplead to BRIEFLY connect the other battery terminalto the other connector pin, the motor should turn slowly
5. if the headlamp cover is already closed, and the motor is trying to close it even more, just reverse the alligator clip connections on the pins.You can connect either + or - to either pin without damaging the motor. Also, you don't have to worry about the vehicle's electrical system while doing this, because the motor is out of the circuit when the connector is unplugged.
On the 89 Daytona (2.5 EFI non-turbo), there are three black plastic control relays in front of the drivers side shock/spring tower on the fender.These are the radiator fan relay, the A/C clutch cutout relay, and the Auto shutdown relay. The relay on the shock tower is the starter relay.There are no separate relays for the headlamp motors in this area for the 89 2.5 EFI non-turbovehicle.Other vehicles (for example the6 cylinder models) may instead have a Power Distribution Center (PDC) in front of the drivers side strut tower, with a removable cover, containing theheadlamp motor relays. If you have one, be sure to check its ground connections.
Theheadlamp control module for the 89 2.5 EFI non-turbo isbehind the center dashboard high above the message center.It is a 6" by 4" by 1"printed circuit board in a black plastic enclosure with a ten wire connector. The module handles a variety of lighting functions, not just the headlamp motors, and is very difficult to remove. The easiest wayto replace it is to leave the old one in place, and attach the connector to the new unit. The module controls the headlamp motors through the dark blue/yellow L31 and brown/yellow L28 wires. These run directly to the headlamp motors, and they should be checked for powerwhen the headlamp switch is activated.
Other wires to module that need checking:
H41 black/red to fuse 16 (headlamp module only), then ground
L3 red/orange to headlamps
G5 dark blue to fuse 13 then ignition switch
L20 black to headlamp switch
H40 black/green, ground
W5 red to H1 violet to fuse 8 then to battery + (horn, concealed headlamps, power locks and seats)
L2 lt green to headlamp switch
The module in my vehicle is Mopar 4503026 2738 76175. It's expensive. It is the non-delay type, and is sort of coffin-shaped on both ends. There is another module that is the delay type, which I don't know much about. If you have a PDC in front of the left strut tower, you'll have a cheaper and easier time fixing it.
It's obvious from the wiring circuits that the motors could be run by bypassing the modules. I'd try using a DPDT switch with a momentary ON and a center position OFF. I'd disconnect L28 and L31 from the module, and solder them to the DPDT switch right to left on one side and left to right on the other. The input pins will need one hot wire (+) and a fused ground.
1. go under the headlight unit and remove the female connector end from from the male electric connector that goes to the motor
2.locate and clean the two metal pins inside the male end of the connector that goes TO the motor
3. use an alligator clip lead to connect either of the6 volt lantern batteryterminalsto either connector pin.
4. use another alligator cliplead to BRIEFLY connect the other battery terminalto the other connector pin, the motor should turn slowly
5. if the headlamp cover is already closed, and the motor is trying to close it even more, just reverse the alligator clip connections on the pins.You can connect either + or - to either pin without damaging the motor. Also, you don't have to worry about the vehicle's electrical system while doing this, because the motor is out of the circuit when the connector is unplugged.
On the 89 Daytona (2.5 EFI non-turbo), there are three black plastic control relays in front of the drivers side shock/spring tower on the fender.These are the radiator fan relay, the A/C clutch cutout relay, and the Auto shutdown relay. The relay on the shock tower is the starter relay.There are no separate relays for the headlamp motors in this area for the 89 2.5 EFI non-turbovehicle.Other vehicles (for example the6 cylinder models) may instead have a Power Distribution Center (PDC) in front of the drivers side strut tower, with a removable cover, containing theheadlamp motor relays. If you have one, be sure to check its ground connections.
Theheadlamp control module for the 89 2.5 EFI non-turbo isbehind the center dashboard high above the message center.It is a 6" by 4" by 1"printed circuit board in a black plastic enclosure with a ten wire connector. The module handles a variety of lighting functions, not just the headlamp motors, and is very difficult to remove. The easiest wayto replace it is to leave the old one in place, and attach the connector to the new unit. The module controls the headlamp motors through the dark blue/yellow L31 and brown/yellow L28 wires. These run directly to the headlamp motors, and they should be checked for powerwhen the headlamp switch is activated.
Other wires to module that need checking:
H41 black/red to fuse 16 (headlamp module only), then ground
L3 red/orange to headlamps
G5 dark blue to fuse 13 then ignition switch
L20 black to headlamp switch
H40 black/green, ground
W5 red to H1 violet to fuse 8 then to battery + (horn, concealed headlamps, power locks and seats)
L2 lt green to headlamp switch
The module in my vehicle is Mopar 4503026 2738 76175. It's expensive. It is the non-delay type, and is sort of coffin-shaped on both ends. There is another module that is the delay type, which I don't know much about. If you have a PDC in front of the left strut tower, you'll have a cheaper and easier time fixing it.
It's obvious from the wiring circuits that the motors could be run by bypassing the modules. I'd try using a DPDT switch with a momentary ON and a center position OFF. I'd disconnect L28 and L31 from the module, and solder them to the DPDT switch right to left on one side and left to right on the other. The input pins will need one hot wire (+) and a fused ground.