Hello folks - let me apologise up from for being "long winded" here - but this Daytona has become a major issue that i wish to get all the input i can about - even if i have to break it into several posts to get the history of what has been done so far out there

86 Daytona hatchback - with 2.2 turbo - MPI fuel system - gave a good price for it and pulled it out of a field in hopes of fixing it as a "daily driver" - this was last Dec - and i am now running on a deadline - that it must either be fixed or a dependable DD in place by the 24th of this month

History to date - would not run at all when i got it home - replaced starter - battery - timing belt & idler - dist cap - rotor - plugs and plug wires

got it cranked - but it would not stay running without flooding - hence - replaced fuel filter - and all 4 injectors - and pulled codes off the LM - 11 - 12 and 13 showing - had MAP sensor tested and it came back ok - so i cleared the codes and made a fresh start

reset timing at dist to 12 degree (factory spec) and car would crank and run at 1500 RMP idle - but when the throttle was "popped" - (floored and released) the car would die and flood again - the only way to get it to crank back is to hold the throttle wide open while turning it over - to clear the cylinders - and hope it catches hold before the battery dies - but if it does - it will only run at 500 RPM with the throttle wide open - and if released - the car will die again and start over - so - replaced MAP sensor - air filter - breather filter - muffler - fuel filter and plugs again - checked cat converter for flow - made no difference and shows no codes exept the all clear

this is the point i am currently at - and am abt ready to blow a gasket over this car lol - or sell it for what i have in it - its a good project car - but i dont have time for a project at this point - and money could get to be an issue as well shortly - hence the deadline

Thanks for letting me ramble - and thanks in advance for any ideas that could help

 

Checking the PCM for codes is the easiest and best first thing to do, but it only tells you if there is a problem within the electrical circuits, mainly the sensors. It cannot tell you if there are problems elsewhere. Is the turbocharger itself OK? Flooding is usually due to either a bad fuel pressure regulator or bad temperature sensor. If it is like my R/T was, if a sensor is unplugged or disconnected it will not turn the CEL on or throw a code. There are so many things that can be wrong with it on these engines.