i have a 1988 daytona pacifia 2.2 the motor was bad so i got a free motor out of a 1985 or 86 laser 2.2 turbo. my problem is on the vac. on the turbo going to the wast gate has a orfice its like a vac stop one way. i had played with it one way it will build about 5lbs and the ethier way it will get about 15lbs and you can fell the power gain witch way should i run it and will it blow it up making that much boost any info..........

 

wait, so in the vacuum line to the waste gate actuator, there is a valve? like a part of a manual boost controller?

 

it like a tube that allows vac one way

 

and... if its go's past 15 it shuts the car down it will come back on if it drops after 15..

 

can you tell me how the turbo works the vac. line off the turbo going to the waste gate is that how it opens the waste gate,,and can i put a cold air intake on it being that the air go's thru the box in fender well dose that have any thing in the box that controls any senser..thanks for any info happy thanksgiven,,,

 

The vacuum line going to the wastegate canister is fed from the intake manifold. When there is vacuum in the line, the wastegate canister holds the swingvalve shut. When there is boost in the vac. line, the wastegate canister's arm moves out to open the swingvalve. This is proportional to the boost .... so, more boost, more open the swingvalve become's. This "wastegate canister to swingvalve" action is what regulates the amount of boost the engine see's.

This fitting you have may be a oneway check valve.
When it is connected so that vacuum/boost can get to the wastegate canister ... the boost amount defaults to around 5lbs. ( pretty standard for the wastegate canister being sourced directly from the manifold vs. the wastegate solenoid)
When the valve is reversed, no vacuum/boost can reach the wastegate canister ... just like it was unplugged completely. The pressure of the spring in the wastegate canister holds the swingvalve shut ... the engine see's more boost pressure. The spring will hold the swingvalve shut untill the exhaust pressure on the valve overcomes the pressure applied by the waste can's spring. ... but you're hitting what's called "overboost shutdown" before the spring can open. Stock shutdown happens when the computer/MAP sensor see's 14.7 psi of boost. Reach that level and stay there for a few seconds and ... boom ... off goes the engine, until you back off the gas.

Now to answer you question about too much boost hurting the engine. Boost by itself doesn't hurt the engine ... detonation in the cylinder's will hurt the engine.
How well your particular set-up prevents detonation will determine how much boost it'll take. Intercooler, higher octane fuel, piston type/condition, head type/condition, fuel pump/system/injector's among a lot of other things will add to the engine's reliabliity.

If you're unsure of the overall condition of the engine you swapped in ... keep the boost down around 10-12 psi. (this was stock range for the engines of the year's you posted anyway) The best and easiet way to do this would be to run a vacuum line from the wastegate canister back to the wastegate soleniod (on the passenger side fender) In this line you can install a restrictor (.030" or so) ... welding tips work OK for this. The restrictor smooths out the spike in the boost.

With the turbo hooked up this way, you engine shouldn't hit shutdown. Once you get a handle on how it works and what sort of power you think you can make ... then get advanced. There are a few good websites on the internet to help guide you down this road.