Arr, I wish I had a turbo on my 3.0L...Dman..i am stuck at 145hp...Arrrr

 

Your 3.0L has almost the exact same output has a 2.2L Turbo I, but without any of the turbo lag.

 

Only less top end power with the 3.0[:@]

But a HELL of a torque Monster out of the hole.

 

You people are good at this, lots of knowledge.... I need to get my lights working, then i am gonna try to fab up an intercooler.... thanks for the answers to the questions. One more though (for now) what kind of benefits would you get from putting a manual boost control in the daytona set-up?

 

Well for starters you will have the ability of setting the boost to what ever you feel comfortable with running and be able to "tune" your car, for example every day use or a Sunday at the track with a turn of a ****. Plus you will have constant, steady boost. When you add a M.B.C you take away the ability of the comp to regulate the amount of boost. The computer senses atmospheric pressures and air temp to calculate the amount of boost for the current conditions that the car is experiencing. High or low boost conditions depending on what the computer thinks is sufficient based upon the sensor readings. That function would now be the soul responsibility of the M.B.C.

One word of CAUTION! Using a M.B.C does not mean that you can just simply crank-da-boost until you can light up the skins in all forward gears. I would HIGHLY (I can't stress this enough) recommend that you install a boost and EGT gauge to keep a eye on things. You can make a beautiful matching set of 4 cast aluminum "bottomless" ashtrays in the blink of an eye for you friends to marvel at while you putting you car up on jack stands to rebuild the bottom end.[:@] So please be smart and spend the money on the gauges first, then on the M.B.C.

Be sure to read up an these pages before you go "ball's deep" on the mods. The 1st link is to a site that explains how to make a safe home made boost controller for about $30 and a Mcmaster Carr or Grainger catalog. Both links are overflowing with the do's and don'ts of 2.2 and 2.5 turbo engines.

http://home.earthlink.net/~turbogus/index-old.html

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/


PS. Sadly Gus Mahon was killed in a motorcycle accident 2 years ago, but the Shelby Dodge community(?) has kept his web site up and running for people to view and learn from his experiences with 2.2 turbo cars. He is the father of the G-valve or Gus-valve, his own version of a M.B.C

Good luck
Troy

 

You sure do seem to have some pretty neat links.[sm=smiley20.gif]

 

If you play around with these FWD cars like I do, the links just seem to find you.

 

I understand the reasons for going easy on the boost... I think I heard that running around 7lbs of boost is safe for the Daytona's, but I don't know for sure, and seeing how you guys know way more about this than me... yeah. I am just still doing research right now, I want to have a decent idea what is going on in my car before i go and do anything major to it as far as boost goes. anyways, thanks for the help, you people are great at this stuff

 

Don't forget about good'ol Mother Mopar. They offer performance calibrated computers for the 2.2/2.5 liter cars. They are usually good for about 5 to 7 lbs more boost, plus a modified fuel and timing curve to make things safe for the engine. I put one in my daily driver (86 GLH Turbo) and I noticed a considerable amout of pick-up in the horse power dept. The perf. computers are "I think" a good place to start. www.fwdperformance.com sells them also, plus that will do "custom" calibrations as well if you want more boost or timing or whatever...

Good luck!

 

I'll second that. I had the Mopar Performance PCM(computer) in my Shelby Z and it brought the boost up from 7.5 psi to 12.5-13.5 psi, however in the winters cold air it would sometimes peg the 15 psi boost gauge.