Hi All,

We found an amazing deal on a 2010 1500SLT and would like to go for it, but since it'll be used for some occasional horse hauling, want to make sure it would be able to cover that need. Horses are + or - 3,500lbs and trailer would be around the same.

We wouldn't be hauling often, just locally most of the time, but would like the option of going on 300mile round trip hauls AND go back to our old home-state to ride with friends (around 1200miles round trip).

We previously owned an F350 but it was a huge POS and we chucked it after dumping $10k into it in just three years....it did, however, haul beautifully.

Here's the specs on the truck we're considering. Any and all advice greatly appreciated!

THANKS!

2010 Dodge Ram 1500
Drive Type: 2WD
Engine Size: 5.7L engine
Number of Cylinders: 8 cylinders
Horsepower: 390 horsepower@5600rpm
Torque (ft.-lbs.): 407 torque@4000rpm
Compression Ratio: 9.8:1
Camshaft: Overhead Valve
Engine Type: Gas
Bore: 3.92
Stroke: 3.58
Valves per Cylinder: 2
Fuel Capacity (gals.): 0
EPA MPG (City/Hwy): 14/20
Wheelbase: 140.5"
Overall Length: 229.0"
Width: 79
Height: 75
Curb Weight: 5017 lbs.
Leg Room F/R: 41.0"
Head Room F/R: 41.0"
Seating Capacity (Std.): 5/6
Cargo Capacity for Cars: N/R
Towing Capacity for Trucks: 10200 lbs.
Payload Capacity for Trucks: 1690 lbs.
Gross Vehicle Weight for Trucks: 6700 lbs.
Tires (Std.): P265/70R17 BSW
Transmission: Automatic

 

It would be close. That's 7k lbs weight.

 

are you hauling a bumper pull or a gooseneck?

 

It would be a bumper pull. I'm mostly worried about a 1/2 ton and how it'll handle downhill braking. There's no transmission cooler on this model, correct? I'm thinking a 3/4ton would be minimum.

Appreciate any thoughts/insight.

 

Not a problem at all. 7,000# is nowhere near towing capacity. Brakes are certainly capable of dealing with that trailer setup (assuming trailer brakes, which are typically required for a trailer of that weight). I've pulled trailers of that weight or more with mine all over the country, including some really significant mountains out west. Worked spectacularly.

Rob

 

Only reason why I asked is I think you would be pushing it if it was a gooseneck, only because its a higher payload. For the amount of pulling that you would do I think you will be fine. The trailer "should" be equipped with electric brakes, if it isn't then I would take that thing back to where you bought it. (at least where I live, any trailer is over 2000lbs needs it) With properly adjusted trailer brakes, it should be hardly any harder on your truck brakes, pulling or not.

Just double check that the truck is equipped with the factory brake controller, if not your going to have to get one. Doesn't have to be a factory one, but its nice having a controller that doesn't rip the skin off your knee. Just remember that if you want to buy a factory one, it is gonna cost you to get it flashed to your truck.

One thing you "might" notice too is a little bit of rear end sag. Because most horse trailers are not equipped with equalizer hitches, your might see it more then others. But I guess it also depends on how you load your animals. From my experience I did notice more sag then others, but it was never enough for the truck to hit the stops. Lots of people put a set of helper bags in and that corrects the issue.

If it were me, I would stay with the 1/2 ton. For a few reasons, 1)You can add a lot of addons (if need be) to make it tow better, while still being under the price of a 3/4ton truck. 2)I miss the ride of a half ton, those coil springs work wonders when your not pulling. (I have never rode in any other truck that rides this nice) Having gone to a 1ton I can tell a huge difference! Most days while not towing, I would give a lot to get that ride back.

Ya with a 3/4ton your gonna be WAY under your limit, and its gonna tow it just fine. But again think of how much that truck is gonna be used for towing. I would take the ride anyday, and suck it up for the 3000miles it "might" pull. Where as for me I look at it exactly opposite, I have a trailer on almost everywhere I go. So I look at as I need the towing power and stability, I can sacrifice ride for the rest. Just a little perspective for you.

Hope this helps!

 

As has already been mentioned be sure of the trailer brakes are in good working order, balance your load properly to prevent rear end sag, put some load range d or e tires on and be aware that you might want to go to 4.10 gears. The next step of 4.56's would probably be too much but is a possiblity depending on what gears you have and how well it handles the load with what you have stock.

 

Awesome, thanks everyone for all the help!!

 

It should work just fine for what your talking about... but like others have said, make sure it has brakes! (I know electric brakes are better than surge brakes, but even if it has surge brakes you should be fine!)

I used to pull more weight than that with a 2005 V6 2WD F150 and it worked fine.

I strongly recommend the OEM brake controller. I work for a company that does trailers and trailer safety and I lead a research team and wrote an article on brake controllers... the modern OEM ones are darn impressive, and the only after market ones that come CLOSE are ones that cost the same amount or more.

Also note there's no reason you have to "flash it" to your truck unless the 2010 was different than the 2011+? (I know the 2011+'s don't need a "flash"- they only need a "flash" to show the information on the EVIC if so equipped. IT works properly without it.)

 

2010 ram 1500 comes with tranny cooler.