Hey all,

I just bought an '09 1500 and plan on putting on new pads and rotors this weekend (front & back).

In the past on other vehicles I've generally just used a large C-Clamp to compress the piston back into the caliber; I'd open the master cylinder reservoir and go slow.
My understanding is that the 'proper' way is to crack open the bleeder valve at the caliber while keeping pressure on the piston but in the past when I've had a scenario where air infiltrated the system and was an additional chore to bleed the system.

What do most here do?
Absolute No-No to do the old way or OK as long as I go slow? Or am I risking a strong chance of damaging the ABS system?

Thanks,
Steve

 

Just do it the way you were doing before. If you have a fluid leak and air in the system, well that changes things.

 

The correct way to do it is to crack the bleeders and compress the brake cyl. This shouldn't allow any air to get into the system not sure why you got air but the real world way and the way just about every shop and every tech does it is to just slowly squeeze the piston back into the caliper. Also make sure to clean and or lube the caliper slides. And don't forget to pump the brakes when your done.

 

I've never cracked the bleeders when I do a brake job, I just compress the pistons and push the fluid back to the master cylinder, didn't realize Ive been doing it wrong, but I've never had any issues.
I also don't top up the brake fluid during regular use, I guess if you keep the fluid topped up you may have an overfill situation if you did it this way.
Good luck

 

If I were u I would be doing a bleed of the the whole system. Reason being brake fluid is hydroscopic and soaks up moisture ur truck is 5yrs old now ane its time for a fluid change just my 2 cents

 

 

I have done my brakes twice on my '09. Once because I put the front pads on wrong side...Long story....But yes just use the c-clamp and go very very slowly as you don;t want to move the shuttle inside the ABS module. I never crack the bleeder. You might want to check the emergency brake pads as well. I had one that had fallen off the shoe inside the e-brake drum of the rear disc. If you have to change those they are about $100 or more. And if you have to change them you might as well plan on pulling the axles as they are almost impossible to change with the axles in. The E-brakes have double springs. One in front and one behind. Plan on using every known cuss word in every known lanquage on this planet and most others while doing it. Or pull the axles and do a fluid change at the same time. I used the Discmotive drilled and slotted discs, and the NAPA Adaptive 0ne pads. (Discmotive even shipped my discs out for free.) I love them. Got about 15,000 on them and still work great. If you use those pads there is an inside and outside specific pad. do not put them on the other way around.....Ask me how I know. But at least I don't have any pulsing crappy Dodge discs on my truck anymore. Sad that they warped out at only 30,000 miles! Grrrr.....

 

I've done hundreds of brake jobs. Not one time have I cracked open a bleeder or removed the reservoir cap for a simple pad and rotor swap.
I put the old inner brake pad against the pistons and use that for c-clamp surface and just compress. it compresses the pistons evenly and stays away from damaging the seals.

If you wanted to flush the system, then you'd want to crack each line open.
I'd invest into a brake vacuum which is much easier on the system and doesn't make you run your pedal past it's usual set points. When bleeding and pressing your pedal to the floor, the iner piston is pushing much further than it's used to. When rust hits the seal, well...it leaks and puts burrs on the seal.
I'd also get all your rotors and pads changed before starting to do any flushing.

The one man bleeders work well too. They have a magnet to mount the bottle higher than the caliper, but the bottle is very small. Generally 4 or 5 bottle dumps is required. Very time consuming. Cheap($8)