You guys seem to be knowledgeable and eager to chat up ideas. I always stumble upon this forum during some quick search before I go wack something with my hammer. So I own a 1996 Dodge Intrepid 3.5L, I replaced a connecting rod bearing (right bank #6)in hopes of a quick fix to get some extra miles. Apparently a tolerance of 100th of an inch is too much and got about 200 miles more out of it (only $12) and my mounts needed replaced anyways ($182 damn dealers and every part dealer in town with mixed up "white" and "yellow" same part numbers).

So I decided to pull my engine and have purchased a rebuilt crank with all bearings! ($192) and a connecting rod rebuilt ($29). I just got the crank out last night and only work on it during the night! Like some kinda night creature (Don’t trust friends to store your vehicle for an engine removal because they might go through a legal separation and find out the wife doesn’t like you and wants your car gone, and expect to work nights after taking the bus just to make her happy that you suffer so it doesn’t get towed). At any rate I pulled my right head off to pull the piston though the top, cause the bottom don't wark =(. I now have the piston out with a rod that I need to take off. So I have removed the twoc-clips looking things off the sides', but don’t want to start banging on it till I’m sure.

So my questionsare -
1) How do I remove the connecting rod from the piston?
2) If my cast # matches on both rods as 4663422 but on the flip side of the original I have another #SE129 whereas my rebuilt has #SE109 so that’s not going to be a problem too, right....right?

If anyone’s got any input, even if it’s useless, let me know so I know someone read this!

Thanks in advance,
Jim

 

The pin has to be pressed out, and back in. A hydrualic arbor press is required. The rod should be fine, but you will need to have the rotating assembly balanced, or else the reman rod will not weigh the same as the others. This will lead to vibrations, and eventually crank failure.