Dodge Journey 2009 SXT 3.5L - My wife's Journey started blowing cold air out of the passenger side of the car after we took it to the dealership to have the wiring harness recall installed, not that I think that the harness would have caused the problem I took it back to the dealership and they stated that it was probably a clogged heater core and wanted $1,300.00+ to repair. I of course said no and took the car home, flushed/back-flushed the core, checked the coolant system and all working fine. Thinking it might be a blend door actuator I checked those too....I have a single-zone system so on the driver's side I checked the actuator and it fully functions. removed, and manually operated the door and still cold air comes from passenger side but not as cold. I am stumped as to what would cause this. Does anyone know the calibration technique for this model? I would give that a shot but I cannot find the directions anywhere. Any other information would be appreciated! :-)

 

I have had the same problem with 2009 Dodge Journey SXT with a clogged heater core. The dealer wants $1,300+. Not sure what I should do next? Any suggestions would be helpful.

 

A back flush of the heater core should help if it is clogged. Try and go to a reputable mechanic and see what they can do for you. I know they will be a lot cheaper than the dealer.

 

If I am not mistaken the calibration needs to be done with the use of the scan tool.

 

It would seem to me that if the heater core
was plugged you would have no heat at all.

 

Best you can try is get a jug of "CLR Calcium Lime & Rust Remover" at your local retail store like Walmart, cut up 2 Garden hose to fit your heater core inlet/outlet, blow the heater core dry with compressed air, fill the heater core up with CLR, leave it over night, and back flush it out the next morning. Sometimes it work, some times it doesn't. Depending on how clog your heater core is.

Good luck, heater core replacement will probably be the last resolve.

 

I have a 2013 Dodge Avenger R/T with 3.6L and single heater control. Of course I tried to flush the core first (everyone should) but the problem for me is the heater core is mounted at about a 30 degree angle with the hoses on the bottom. This allows any air in the system to accumulate at the top, effectively reducing the usable size of the heater core and present symptoms similar to a plugged core. The way I solved the problem was to jack the drivers side as high as possible and removed the upper (as they come through the firewall) heater hose and inserted a funnel. Then I removed the air bleed screw on the thermostat housing. I refilled the coolant system through the heater hose/funnel. Once coolant began to flow from the air bleed without air I replaced that screw. I started the engine and continued to fill until coolant flowed from the heater pipe where I had removed the hose and then capped the pipe with my thumb. I continued to attempt to fill the heater hose, holding it as high as possible. When I could not fill any more, I reinstalled the hose as quickly as possible to allow as little air as possible from reentering the system. I filled the coolant reservoir, and continued to get the engine to normal operating temperature and ensured the reservoir was appropriately filled. Keep in mind that any time the system is opened or leaking, the symptoms will return until as much of the air is removed from the system again. This is why it works when anything in the cooling system is replaced. It reoccurs quickly for some because not all the air was removed or it has a leak. I did this 2 months ago and still have heat.