Do you really need to replace the belt tensioner?
#1
04-27-2024, 01:50 PM
Join Date: Mar 2024
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Do you really need to replace the belt tensioner?
Journey has 150k miles on it and the belt is not causing any problems, but I want to change it as preventative maintenance. Gates says "always" replace the belt and tensioner together. It's $100 at RockAuto. Do I really need to, or can I just replace the belt as the new one should perform roughly the same as the OEM belt on there now?
I'm also still on the OEM alternator. Anybody recommend replacing that before it dies of natural causes?
I'm also still on the OEM alternator. Anybody recommend replacing that before it dies of natural causes?
#3
04-30-2024, 12:36 AM
It’s a mechanical ball bearing spinning at hundreds of rpm’s with probably over 2,000 hours of operation.
If it does fail, an interference engine usually wrecks itself, piston hits the valves. If it gets loud and starts squeaking, going in again is several hours work, versus 10 mins during belt change. If the CPS sensor is behind the timing covers, I usually even change that too,
(heat and vibration wear sensors out ). Most licensed mechanics I know recommend changing it.
If money is tight or your feeling lucky…roll the dice. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.
If it does fail, an interference engine usually wrecks itself, piston hits the valves. If it gets loud and starts squeaking, going in again is several hours work, versus 10 mins during belt change. If the CPS sensor is behind the timing covers, I usually even change that too,
(heat and vibration wear sensors out ). Most licensed mechanics I know recommend changing it.
If money is tight or your feeling lucky…roll the dice. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.
#4
04-30-2024, 11:09 AM
Join Date: Mar 2024
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It’s a mechanical ball bearing spinning at hundreds of rpm’s with probably over 2,000 hours of operation.
If it does fail, an interference engine usually wrecks itself, piston hits the valves. If it gets loud and starts squeaking, going in again is several hours work, versus 10 mins during belt change. If the CPS sensor is behind the timing covers, I usually even change that too,
(heat and vibration wear sensors out ). Most licensed mechanics I know recommend changing it.
If money is tight or your feeling lucky…roll the dice. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.
If it does fail, an interference engine usually wrecks itself, piston hits the valves. If it gets loud and starts squeaking, going in again is several hours work, versus 10 mins during belt change. If the CPS sensor is behind the timing covers, I usually even change that too,
(heat and vibration wear sensors out ). Most licensed mechanics I know recommend changing it.
If money is tight or your feeling lucky…roll the dice. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.