Rear Disc Brakes
I have a 2007 Dodge Magnum, 3.5L SXT, RWD (not AWD).
At 45,000km., the rear left brake started grinding yesterday. Took wheel off, found the inside pad worn right thru, outside pad almost worn thru.
Haven't checked the right rear yet.
Can anyone tell whether this is normal or not?
Usually the front pads are gone long before the rears.
Thank you.
At 45,000km., the rear left brake started grinding yesterday. Took wheel off, found the inside pad worn right thru, outside pad almost worn thru.
Haven't checked the right rear yet.
Can anyone tell whether this is normal or not?
Usually the front pads are gone long before the rears.
Thank you.
Well, I changed the rear pads today.
The right side brakes were AOK, but I replaced them anyways along with the badly worn left side pads.
Took the old pads to the Dealership to ask what's going on here. Why is one side badly worn while the other side is still AOK?
They told me that Chargers & Magnums have a problem with the rear pads corroding on the sides, which prevent them from moving properly within the metal brackets, when squeezed & released by the caliper.
They are suggesting to owners that the rear brake pads be removed every 20,000km., have the edges files down, and then apply anti-seize compound to the edges to prevent this rusty build-up.
Thank you.
The right side brakes were AOK, but I replaced them anyways along with the badly worn left side pads.
Took the old pads to the Dealership to ask what's going on here. Why is one side badly worn while the other side is still AOK?
They told me that Chargers & Magnums have a problem with the rear pads corroding on the sides, which prevent them from moving properly within the metal brackets, when squeezed & released by the caliper.
They are suggesting to owners that the rear brake pads be removed every 20,000km., have the edges files down, and then apply anti-seize compound to the edges to prevent this rusty build-up.
Thank you.
the rear calipers float. if they get jammed for any reason, the inside pad will be doing all the braking. make sure you do a complete brake job and inspection. find out why the caliper is stuck and cure the problem. if you don't, the new pads will wear out super fast.
Well, here we are a year later and it's happened agaoin. The rear left brakes worn right thru, this destroying the rotor.
After replacing the pads and rotor, I checked things out.
1. Caliper is working fine, releasing when brake pedal released
2. The caliper sliding pins are NOT seized and are working properly
3. The new pads DO NOT fit the caliper bracket properly. U need a hammer to get them to go in, and then they are TOO TIGHT and will not move. I had this problem the last two times. It seems like the bracket is faulty.
This time I tried something diferent. I used my electric grinder and ground the ends of the pads down so they fit the bracket properly, and somewhat loosely.
WHen I checked the right side, all is good, and the pads go in and ot of the bracket perfectly.
I believe mt rear left caliper bracket is faulty.
After replacing the pads and rotor, I checked things out.
1. Caliper is working fine, releasing when brake pedal released
2. The caliper sliding pins are NOT seized and are working properly
3. The new pads DO NOT fit the caliper bracket properly. U need a hammer to get them to go in, and then they are TOO TIGHT and will not move. I had this problem the last two times. It seems like the bracket is faulty.
This time I tried something diferent. I used my electric grinder and ground the ends of the pads down so they fit the bracket properly, and somewhat loosely.
WHen I checked the right side, all is good, and the pads go in and ot of the bracket perfectly.
I believe mt rear left caliper bracket is faulty.



