Sloltted and or drilled rotors anyone???
Joined: Jun 2004
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RE: Sloltted and or drilled rotors anyone???
[8D] You cannot compare racing to daiily driving. The two have opposed goals. How many times do you want to repace the daily drivers rotors. A racing car has the barkes replace every event. Their goal is stopping. If racing breaks only go a couple of hunred miles thats great. let's get real. No racing situtation can compare to daily driving.
I agree that the weight of the Magnum is kinda high. and in a real world panic stop I'd like the biggest rotors I can get but how often do you need that. If I had unlimited money I love to but a set of Bear's on mine but life interrupts the dreams of a motorhead. I do know that slotted and drilled rotors do wear the pads much faster. The edges give a little grip and help wear them away. They do however look cool so there is that.
I agree that the weight of the Magnum is kinda high. and in a real world panic stop I'd like the biggest rotors I can get but how often do you need that. If I had unlimited money I love to but a set of Bear's on mine but life interrupts the dreams of a motorhead. I do know that slotted and drilled rotors do wear the pads much faster. The edges give a little grip and help wear them away. They do however look cool so there is that.
All Star
Joined: Feb 2004
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RE: Sloltted and or drilled rotors anyone???
ORIGINAL: Cal Jeff
[8D] You cannot compare racing to daiily driving. The two have opposed goals. How many times do you want to repace the daily drivers rotors. A racing car has the barkes replace every event. Their goal is stopping. If racing breaks only go a couple of hunred miles thats great. let's get real. No racing situtation can compare to daily driving.
I agree that the weight of the Magnum is kinda high. and in a real world panic stop I'd like the biggest rotors I can get but how often do you need that. If I had unlimited money I love to but a set of Bear's on mine but life interrupts the dreams of a motorhead. I do know that slotted and drilled rotors do wear the pads much faster. The edges give a little grip and help wear them away. They do however look cool so there is that.
[8D] You cannot compare racing to daiily driving. The two have opposed goals. How many times do you want to repace the daily drivers rotors. A racing car has the barkes replace every event. Their goal is stopping. If racing breaks only go a couple of hunred miles thats great. let's get real. No racing situtation can compare to daily driving.
I agree that the weight of the Magnum is kinda high. and in a real world panic stop I'd like the biggest rotors I can get but how often do you need that. If I had unlimited money I love to but a set of Bear's on mine but life interrupts the dreams of a motorhead. I do know that slotted and drilled rotors do wear the pads much faster. The edges give a little grip and help wear them away. They do however look cool so there is that.
Last post on this subject as people who "think" drilled rotors work are like political extremists, you can't change their mind. I just want anybody reading this to know the facts, drilled rotors do not work, they in fact hurt braking performance and compromise stopping abuility. I don't know where you came up with your theroy that race cars and drivers have oppposite goals (I drive my car everyday, the same one I race). Are you saying daily drivers do not want to stop in as short as possible? The Magnum has about the biggest rotors on ANY production car today, I beleive they are 13.8". My 2004 Corvette front rotors are only 12.75". No , we do not replace brakes every event, maybe every season, or a couple times a season. I use my brakes just as heavy on I580 mornimng triaffic as I do on the track. I think you are missing my point anyway-in a race car where as you pointed out the ultimate goal is stopping distance at any expense, you wouldn't they use drlled rotors if they accomplish that goal. I'll tell you why, they don't. You must have missed my point about removing surface material from the only thing the pads grab to slow the car. You say you would like Baer brakes-OK you have them. Baer uses PBR caliperts and their own brackets to fit larger rotors, but you already the biggest rotors that will fit your car-even with mods you are not getting a bigger rotor on there. Another note, when Baer first off as the leading producer of aftermarket brakes they did not even offer drilled rotors claiming they are not nesessary for outgassing and hurt perfomance. They now sell them only as a "bling" factor for the uninformed.
Yes, I do run stock Corvette ceramic pads as do most of the guys I run with. There are a few who are extereme and change pads/rotors at the track for track only brakes but they only marginaly help.
Enough of this, I could go on for hours and provide dozens of pages of engineering datas to back up my thoughts (they are all indisputable). I have spent years doing suspension and brakes research and development. By what you like, just don't think you're doing anything but improving the way the car looks through the wheels.
From the Baer Racing Q & A section:
Q: I don’t want to spend the money for a complete brake upgrade. Do you offer cross drilled rotors to work with my factory brakes?
Yes. Although there are some companies which sell cross-drilled rotors as an actual performance upgrade, in our extensive testing we have seen no improvement to be had by simply crossdrilling stock rotors. This is why Baer has developed EradiSpeedâ„¢ rotor upgrades for a variety of applications. Although it is true the crossdrilling, the slotting, or for that matter the zinc surface washing, are cosmetic enhancements, EradiSpeedâ„¢ rotor packages also feature rotors with thicker cheeks to provide more heat sink capacity in the fire path of the rotor. Also, they all feature directional vanes for greater pumping efficiency, as well as a two-piece design where the hat, or hub/hat section of the rotor is CNC machined from a solid billet of aluminum and is then fixed to the rotor ring using National Aviation Standard (NAS) stainless hardware. In other words, the EradiSpeedâ„¢ is much more than just the most visually appealing direct replacement rotor, it is the only upgrade of its type which can actually deliver the benefits of greater heat absorption, increased durability and lighter total weight.
In racing, crossdrilling was designed to alleviate a problem known as out-gassing. In some of the older pad compounds, when the pads reached elevated temperatures consistent with performance or racing use, the binder (that’s the material that holds the friction material in place) boiled off, producing a gas. This gas would build up between the rotor and the brake pad, effectively keeping the pad from directly contacting the rotor. The holes provide a relief path for these gasses, as do slots, so the pad can once again contact the rotor. Crossdrilling was NOT designed to facilitate cooling.
Although Baer offers crossdrilling as an option on their systems, it is offered as a cosmetic option only. However, with an EradiSpeedâ„¢ rotor upgrade, unlike a cosmetically altered stock replacement rotor, you will benefit from improved durability, greater heat sink capacity, lighter total weight and the visual excitement of a 2-piece, aluminum centered, crossdrilled, slotted and zinc washed appearance.
Q: I don’t want to spend the money for a complete brake upgrade. Do you offer cross drilled rotors to work with my factory brakes?
Yes. Although there are some companies which sell cross-drilled rotors as an actual performance upgrade, in our extensive testing we have seen no improvement to be had by simply crossdrilling stock rotors. This is why Baer has developed EradiSpeedâ„¢ rotor upgrades for a variety of applications. Although it is true the crossdrilling, the slotting, or for that matter the zinc surface washing, are cosmetic enhancements, EradiSpeedâ„¢ rotor packages also feature rotors with thicker cheeks to provide more heat sink capacity in the fire path of the rotor. Also, they all feature directional vanes for greater pumping efficiency, as well as a two-piece design where the hat, or hub/hat section of the rotor is CNC machined from a solid billet of aluminum and is then fixed to the rotor ring using National Aviation Standard (NAS) stainless hardware. In other words, the EradiSpeedâ„¢ is much more than just the most visually appealing direct replacement rotor, it is the only upgrade of its type which can actually deliver the benefits of greater heat absorption, increased durability and lighter total weight.
In racing, crossdrilling was designed to alleviate a problem known as out-gassing. In some of the older pad compounds, when the pads reached elevated temperatures consistent with performance or racing use, the binder (that’s the material that holds the friction material in place) boiled off, producing a gas. This gas would build up between the rotor and the brake pad, effectively keeping the pad from directly contacting the rotor. The holes provide a relief path for these gasses, as do slots, so the pad can once again contact the rotor. Crossdrilling was NOT designed to facilitate cooling.
Although Baer offers crossdrilling as an option on their systems, it is offered as a cosmetic option only. However, with an EradiSpeedâ„¢ rotor upgrade, unlike a cosmetically altered stock replacement rotor, you will benefit from improved durability, greater heat sink capacity, lighter total weight and the visual excitement of a 2-piece, aluminum centered, crossdrilled, slotted and zinc washed appearance.
Professional
Joined: Aug 2004
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RE: Sloltted and or drilled rotors anyone???
Crossdrilled rotors are not only prone to severe cracking under heavy use, as stated previously, but they also decrease the surface area of the rotor. This obviously decreases braking ability.
The cars out there (i.e. Porsches) using high-quality rotors from the factory are actually not cross-"drilled," but have the holes cast into them when the rotor is initially created, not drilled into them after the fact. This makes for much higher rotor integrity, and one that is far, far less prong to cracking, even under heavy track use.
Drilling and/or slotting also has a tendency to cut pad life short, as it effectively skims off the pad surface as the pad passes by.
The drilling and slotting craze came about decades ago to release gases built up between the rotor and pad. However, most good pads these have gas slots built into them. Good brake ducting is far more effective at cooling off the rotors than drilling or slotting.
The cars out there (i.e. Porsches) using high-quality rotors from the factory are actually not cross-"drilled," but have the holes cast into them when the rotor is initially created, not drilled into them after the fact. This makes for much higher rotor integrity, and one that is far, far less prong to cracking, even under heavy track use.
Drilling and/or slotting also has a tendency to cut pad life short, as it effectively skims off the pad surface as the pad passes by.
The drilling and slotting craze came about decades ago to release gases built up between the rotor and pad. However, most good pads these have gas slots built into them. Good brake ducting is far more effective at cooling off the rotors than drilling or slotting.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 27
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RE: Sloltted and or drilled rotors anyone???
Either way, with all that being said, I still plan to change the stock pads and add slotted rotors. I dont feel the stock pads are up for the job. I can not be faced with brake fade again.
Can't wait to post pictures!!!
Can't wait to post pictures!!!
Rookie
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 60
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RE: Sloltted and or drilled rotors anyone???
I'd hate to be the passenger riding in your car if you drive aggressively enough on public roads to actually induce any sort of moderate brake fade.
You'd have to make a real effort and accelerate to "arrest me" speeds and plough your way to a stop six or eight times in a row to get any sort of brake fade happening....
You'd have to make a real effort and accelerate to "arrest me" speeds and plough your way to a stop six or eight times in a row to get any sort of brake fade happening....
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
RE: Sloltted and or drilled rotors anyone???
All it would take is one good shoving match!! In my Bullitt i got into it with a z28 on rt 50 headed towards DC (for those who are familiar with maryland) And you are right, a few runs up to 110 or so, and back down to 50 is quickly will do the trick. I changed a few components and never had the problem again.
no worries!!
no worries!!
