Hey, thanks for the input, i wish more people were more forthcoming. Here's a question though, I was kinda straying from stock because of the frame repair. From what I understand, after such a repair they really aren't considdered to be worth muchfor factory original condition. Where as modern drivelines and amenities pulls a premium on the "I drive it regularly" front, this being wherepeopleonly care if the rails are safe not factory correct. Also, I don't want the factory top banana, besides the fact that the wife said NO to top banana. Otherwise I am really hung up on what direction to take, soyour input is greatly appriciated.The driveline isn't going to happen right now, but if I'm going 340 (if I get it I will stroke it to a 416) I need to buy the motor soon, deals like this dont happen every day. Otherwise i'm looking to spend no more that 10K on the driveline includinga new/rebuilt trans and a LSD. Anotherconsidderation is that being mil I move frequently, and would prefer to not schlep the foctory motor everywhere I go, it could be dropped at my parents for long term, but a considderation non the less.

 

Sounds like you got a direction. Good luck with it!

 

I agree with dodgebrothers, refresh the 340 and keep the original 318. That is what I did on my '74 Charger. I prefer the SB's because they are lighter and and easier on gas, a consideration in these rising fuel cost times. I also prefer the SB's because they are a tough, fairly easy to maintain and work on, and pretty bullet proof engines. Also if you can't get an SB 727 to go behind the 340 the 904 is pretty rugged an will probably work as long as you are not hammering on it hard all the time. I believe there are some things you can do to help it out. Will have to do a little research on that.

As for going with anything but a resto on the frame it will probably cost a bunch more to go withaftermarket driveline/steering/suspension components than stock. Something to do your research on.

I am getting ready myself for a total brake/suspension/steering replacement on my '74 using pretty well all stock style compenents.

 

Thanks for this input, I am really torn between old and new, but now thats two votes for the 340. No votes for the crate HEMI. My car was and still is a 727 car, kinda saves some time. Its Saturday morning,and I'm about to get hacking on the rail again. Its a long weekend, and hopefully by COB Monday I'll have the drivers rail and both torsion caps in. I just ordered all new Energy Suspension bushings and all new brakebits for the front end, master cyl, caliper rebuild kits, lines, EZ Bleeder screws and a line lock.

OK guys keep it coming, I need your input, I want this Chally to be one anyone would like to park in their stable.

 

I'd go the 340 route as well. It's an engine that was available in that year Challenger, and can be built to be pretty stout, if you want. With the frame repairs on an original 318 car, which don't command the $$$ that the 340 cars or the earlier 70&71's do, you really aren't hurting the value at all. For all around handling, you really don't want the Hemi. That's good for straight line acceleration and the cruise night ooh & ahh factor, and wouldn't justify the expense, IMO. Good luck with the project- looks like you have a good start and are going about it the right way. Keep us posted on the progress.

 

hey all, thanks for the input. First I apologize for the lack of progress, the drivers frame rail has really slowed me down, and almost lopped off a finger. Thus the slow progress. Also, I need to clarify my motor options. I'M STILL WORKING THE 340, but the seller is wavering wether to sell or not. IF i can get it, I WILL. NOW, as for the HEMI, I am talking about the NEW HEMI 5.7 or 6.1. So, it's light and fuel injected, 2005-2008 reliability in a 73, also I would like to steal the slap stik 5spd for gas mileage. OK, I think that clears some of it up.

 

Hopefully you can get the 340. I would look into what a new hemi is going to cost. With fuel injection and all the electronics to control it it may push 10 grand (unless you go with MPI which may push it down to around 8 grand). Or lookinto a carbuerated version. May be cheaper and you won't need all the fuel injection electronics.Or maybe an old fashioned 360 crate engine which will set you back around 5 grand. Maybe if you are lucky you could find a running 360 at awrecking yard worth salvaging that may be able to be massaged for less thean the price of a crate. Some ideas to think about.

I went with a Just Suspensions kit for the whole car (my '74 Charger that is). Looks to be pretty darn complete. Wanted to see if the kit would save me time over chasing down the parts individually at the auto parts stores (seeing as I hate driving in SoCal traffic). Will see how it goes when I get ready to reassemble everything. As for rebuilding brake components like calipers and wheel cylinders I decided that with the age of the car it would be wiser to just go with new. If there is enough rust in either there is a possibility that honing will never give you the smooth surface you need for the best brakes. When I do my '67 Charger it will be the same, all new wheel cylinders to be on the safe side (all newfrom the master to the wheels also). Just something to think about.

 

DM, I know where yu are coming from, but my calipers ar elike new on the inside. I'm going to hone hem out, but I have no doubt I could leave hem alone and they would work fine.

I almost have the drivers rail finished, hopefully by COB today I'll be done wit the rail repair.I'll try to get more pics up.

 

ladies and gents, im back....i know its been a while, but I have made some progress. It just seems that it was so much metal work that only I could tell that I was actually getting anywhere. So, since my last post:
Frame rails - COMPLETE, Torsion bar cross member - COMPLETE, Rusted through area behind the hinges - COMPLETE, Rusted area above each shock tower - COMPLETE (rebuilt both braces and inner fender), Rusted area where the inner fender and firewall meet - COMPLETE (rebuilt firewall, braces, and inner fender), and last but surely not least - I got sick of the hollie, 35 year battered forward 3/4's of each inner fenderwell, so I home fabricated new pieces!

With that being said, I have some pointers/suggestions to anyone about to conduct the same operation.
The way I went, I spent about $40 on sheet metal for the innerfender, and I still have quite a bit left over - and I spent $10 on filler and $30 on sanding/grinding discs to make my not great welds look better - and an indespensable tool for this degree of work was a shot bag with rubber shaping mallet and a football dolly...around $30 at Harbor Freight.

Some people are faster than me, but for me, I now understand the price of pre stamped panels - I would really considder buying them if I HAD TO DO IT AGAIN. And just to be clear, I'm not doing it again.

Well Folks, here's some pics:

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A little more from me.

If your in the hunt for a good welder, and your like me (don't weld all that great), I advise what I purchased - A Miller 140 With Autoset. I can honestly say that the welder makes a huge difference.

So, I have also solved my engine delimma. I found something we hadn't talked about, but at a price I couldn't pass up, so we're going a little older school here folks. I picked up a '70 Chrysler 413 out of a winnebago for dirt cheap, running, with trans. Now, for those of you who don't know, the winnebago motors ARE different. Mostly perifial crap, but they are different. The big difference is the water pump and heads, the water pump bolts to the front of the block (like all RB's) but it also pulls water through the front of each head. I would like to keep this, but the truth is the water inlet is HUGH! Hugh to the tune of 2-1/2 inch hose! So, that won't work, but luckly I found a local guy with two early 60's 413 rotting away in his garage. I got a set of OLD closed chamber heads and a car water pump.

The heads have small exhaust valves, but seeing as how they need hardened seats I'll just up them to the big valves in the RV heads.

I have heard, not yet confimed, that the RV 413's were low compression. If this is true, the closed chamer heads should bring it up; if it's all hog wash then I should have around 13:1, awfully high you say? I say not for ethanol!!!!

If my ratio will allow pump gas, ill use it, if not ill use ethanol......what yall think? With the cheap crap at 3.50/gal, 2.25/gal ethanol looks good. Plus if it is build for eathanol, high compr, my 600HP goal will be even easyer to achieve!

So, here is what she loks like for now, the seller had already upgraded to a Performer intake and 800cfm edelbrock carb:


[IMG]local://upfiles/82445/542CB6E039814BEB969B73FC8E2A7E4F.jpg[/IMG]

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