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2 questions.. help plzz?

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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 05:06 PM
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gnu4life778's Avatar
gnu4life778
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From: Mass
Default 2 questions.. help plzz?

Hey whats up everyone, i currently am having 2 problems
1) for some reason my autometer narrow band A/F guage ( 3 wires, red, black and purple)is not getting any signal even though i tryed splicing it into every wire on the O2 sensor below the cat, if anyone could tell me what im doing wrong, it would be great
2) would a R/T intake manifold fit on a 05 neon sxt? im currently running nitrous, and im sorta worried about the crap *** plastic mani.. i looked into INDY intake manifolds but 500 bucks is absolutly stupid andnot worth the money
 
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 07:14 PM
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berretta96
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Default RE: 2 questions.. help plzz?

Ok so you've gotten a Magnum intake. You want to have it operate just like an ACR or R/T. You looked at all the how-to's but none seem to work. Well this configuration will have your intake working just like a Magnum motor. Just follow the directions below....

Parts needed

A Magnum intake with a functioning actuator
a RPM window switch (Harlan or MSD(you may need a tach adapter))*
a Zex TPS/WOT switch*
2 relays (SPDT - Single pole, Double throw)
wire (lots of it)

*note these devices use a ground interrupt which are used to control relays, using these devices to control high current devices will fry them on first use.

Background

The Magnum intake on the Neon ACR and R/T's has two runners one being the short or primary runner, and a long or secondary runner. The secondaries are operated by a set of 4 butterflys actuated by the MTV actuator which is controlled by the PCM. The secondaries are
opened when certain parameters are met. First you must be at WOT, and then you must be between idle and 3200RPMS, or 5000+(to clarify you will be on the primary runners no matter what between 3200 and 5000RPMS). Other than that you are running only on the primary
runners.

Setup

Install your Magnum intake.

Now you need to locate a constant and switched +12VDC source (the battery + terminal, and the hot side off the fuel pump relay will work).

First we are going to hook up the WOT switch. Wire it according to the instructions (use the switched +12 source to supply power) connecting one of the two control wires(we are only going to use one, you can use the second one to control another relay to fire off nitrous solenoids if you want) to one of the terminals for the relay #1 coil.

Wire up the other coil terminal to your constant 12V source.

Now following the WOT switch instructions program the WOT switch. After you program the WOT switch with the ignition ON, you should be able to depress the throttle to WOT and hear the relay engaging, then disengaging after you let up. If not troubleshoot your wiring.

Now we are going to wire up the RPM switch(depending on which you are using the tach adapter as well, the Harlan does NOT need the TA, just tap one of the hot wires going to the coil pack( either outside wire will do(the center is your common)) and set it to 2 cyl when you are programming it) to its power source (switched +12V) and the trigger wire (ground) to the
one of the coil terminals on relay #2, and the other term should be connected to the NO (Normally Open) contact on relay #1. Now connect the common terminal on relay #1 to your switched +12 source. Almost done!

Now connect the + terminal of the MTV actuator to the +12V constant, then connect the - terminalto the common terminal of relay #2, and the NO (normally open) to ground.

Tidy up your wiring, program the RPM switch, and try it out!


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