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how do i remove the hormonic balancer

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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 07:17 PM
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thanemesis
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Default how do i remove the hormonic balancer

i have a sohc dodge neon , im having a problem removing the balancer , i bought a 3 jaw puller from harbor freight and broke the puller , i even heated the balancer a lil with a hand held torch to maybe loosen it free . please help ... thanemesis
 
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 07:19 PM
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has anyone ever installed a aftermarket oil pressure gauge , i was wondering how to do it .. ty
 
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 11:34 AM
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Default Don't heat and beat! Very bad juju!

Originally Posted by thanemesis
i have a sohc dodge neon , im having a problem removing the balancer , i bought a 3 jaw puller from harbor freight and broke the puller , i even heated the balancer a lil with a hand held torch to maybe loosen it free . please help ... thanemesis
NEVER HEAT AND BEAT! YOU WILL FOREVER MORE F@## IT UP! I did it and loosened my oil pump front seal and when it popped out, it ruined my newly built engine and I had to do the whole damn thing all over again!

Go to autozone and get the "Chrysler Harmonic Dampener Puller - #27139"
It will cost you $60 to rent it, but you will get it back when you return it.

Use the longest shaft in the kitand add to it a small 3/4 bolt that fits up into the hole where the shaft goes into the device to get the pulley off very very easily without any fuss, banging, beating or heating. All you have to do is keep the engine from turning over when you start taking it off by taking out the #1 plug and putting a long shaft (such as a 12" long 1/2 drill bit) down into the cylinder to prevent it from turning over - basically locking it up temporarily.

There is another tool that puts it back on very very easily, and I will respond with that tool number later.


Originally Posted by thanemesis
has anyone ever installed a aftermarket oil pressure gauge , i was wondering how to do it .. ty
Basically you replace the existing oil pressure sensor - that is located on the back lower side of the engine (nearest the firewall) very close to where the tranny bolts on - with either an electric or mechanical oil pump pressure sensor. Even better if you can find/get a T adapter which will let you keep the existing sensor and add what you want.

If electric, you have to provide a power wire to the sensor and to the dash area where you put the guage. Usually you run the wire through one of the existing grommets to do this.

If mechanical, you don't have to run any wires to the sensor, but you do have to run a plastic line that will contain engine oil once it fully fills up that you run through the firewall (again through an existing grommet) to the dash where you will put the guage.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bg1995redneon
There is another tool that puts it back on very very easily, and I will respond with that tool number later.
As I stated earlier, the tool that you can use to put the crank pulley (and oil pump pulley too - fyi) back on very easily is from Miller Special Tools - #6792

http://millerspecialtools.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=190

it costs $41.29 + shipping but it is SOOOOOO worth it.

Now, if you can get/find/have the following you can make your own:

1) a bolt (I believe it is a 12x1.75mm thread bolt) that is at least 6 inches (~150mm) long. You CANNOT use the existing crank bolt BTW - too short - and a matching nut you can put wrenches on to crank it up and down.

2) at least 2 washers - good solid hard ones.

3) a small bearing - big enough for the bolt to pass through but not bigger then the washers.

4) an axle nut socket (about 27 ~32mm - one with a big enough hole for the bolt to go through it.

Put nut on bolt, one washer, the bearing, one washer, then the socket. Put the pulley on and lightly tap it on a little with a rubber or dead blow mallet - LIGHTLY - to get the pulley to hold itself on. Then put the tool into place and once you get the bolt threaded into the inner crank threads firmly and have the tool properly aligned, Just start wrenching it down. If the motor tries to turn over again, just repeat what I said earlier about putting a shaft down the #1 cylinder to hold it long enough to get it done.
 

Last edited by bg1995redneon; Sep 10, 2010 at 02:13 PM.
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