Alternator..is it done?
Thread Starter
|
Veteran
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From:
Alternator..is it done?
My problem started this moening, battery light went on, then maybe put 50 kms on car, every gauge died or went completely wrong like my speedo went down frmo 90 kms to 20. So i charged the car from another car, and it got me home.
But about km before i got home, it started bucking and seemed likeit wanted to quit, buti just kept the revs up and it got home just fine, i revved it in my driveway, it studdered a but at low revs but it still ran good, when i got off the gas it stalled. So its like my battery is no good, but then it seems like the alternator is not good.
Does anyone think there might be fusable links? im just wondering.
BUt what do u think about this, sorry for the long story.
Sean
But about km before i got home, it started bucking and seemed likeit wanted to quit, buti just kept the revs up and it got home just fine, i revved it in my driveway, it studdered a but at low revs but it still ran good, when i got off the gas it stalled. So its like my battery is no good, but then it seems like the alternator is not good.
Does anyone think there might be fusable links? im just wondering.
BUt what do u think about this, sorry for the long story.
Sean
All Star
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 951
Likes: 0
From: Kankakee, IL
RE: Alternator..is it done?
Well a couple of quick basic tests
No Multi-Meter
--- Try jumping with no battery and see if it runs ok. If so then alternator is probably OK. A very bad battery can cause the alternator to strain harder than it capable of putting out.
--- If that worked, then replace battery. If battery light is out when running then probably OK but umper cables would be a nice thing to have.
--- if not the alternator is probably shot.
Ahh the Mulit-Meter
--- First check battery voltage after headlights have were on for a minute or two(Removes surface charge from battery). Should be around 12.68V at full charge no less than 12.45V though for 75% charge).
--- Then check with car running. Sould be between 13.5V and 14.5V and fairly steady. Then check again after adding headlights in HI and AC on max cold with fan on HI. Again with defrost on as well. Still should be at 13.5-14.5V.
--- if last test is not OK then check again for proper voltage at the alternator. Use the B+ (Heavy cable bolted to the case with either rubber or plastic enclosure around it. Not the weather pack connector.) and the case (Ground).
------- If the last test is OK then you have either a high resistance due to corrosion or broken cable. This depends on whether voltage came up but not as much as the alternotr or the battery is still at just battery voltage. If just not as high then check the using voltage, measuring from the B+ on alternator to the battery positive post. Voltage drop should be less than .1V. Check again on negative side using case and battery negative post. One side sould be high. If negative than check battery terminals for corrosion and then check chassis grounds for corrossion as well. If battery was stuck at battery voltage than using the same test you will find the open side (Almost always the +). Find open and repair.
Above is just a few general type tests by no means all inclusive.
No Multi-Meter
--- Try jumping with no battery and see if it runs ok. If so then alternator is probably OK. A very bad battery can cause the alternator to strain harder than it capable of putting out.
--- If that worked, then replace battery. If battery light is out when running then probably OK but umper cables would be a nice thing to have.
--- if not the alternator is probably shot.
Ahh the Mulit-Meter
--- First check battery voltage after headlights have were on for a minute or two(Removes surface charge from battery). Should be around 12.68V at full charge no less than 12.45V though for 75% charge).
--- Then check with car running. Sould be between 13.5V and 14.5V and fairly steady. Then check again after adding headlights in HI and AC on max cold with fan on HI. Again with defrost on as well. Still should be at 13.5-14.5V.
--- if last test is not OK then check again for proper voltage at the alternator. Use the B+ (Heavy cable bolted to the case with either rubber or plastic enclosure around it. Not the weather pack connector.) and the case (Ground).
------- If the last test is OK then you have either a high resistance due to corrosion or broken cable. This depends on whether voltage came up but not as much as the alternotr or the battery is still at just battery voltage. If just not as high then check the using voltage, measuring from the B+ on alternator to the battery positive post. Voltage drop should be less than .1V. Check again on negative side using case and battery negative post. One side sould be high. If negative than check battery terminals for corrosion and then check chassis grounds for corrossion as well. If battery was stuck at battery voltage than using the same test you will find the open side (Almost always the +). Find open and repair.
Above is just a few general type tests by no means all inclusive.
.
