New Cam Sensor issue
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New Cam Sensor issue
Any have a new cam sensor go bad after say 100miles of driving on it?
Cleaned and checked all the plugs on car attached to cam and crank sensor wiring was good took plugs apart to remove the metal contacts clean and fine too. Fuel Pressure is fine checked that after towed home. Using TORQUE APP and OBDLINK port adapter crank was registering RPM while turning engine with starter researching RPM is fed from crank sensor. After cleaning up plugs and reseating acts like it wants to kick but does not. A plug popped out Champion putting in new plugs a while back felt like one was twisting off only to find out wasn't stripping plug threads in head but base twisted off. Using a screw extractor lucky got base out with tip still attached to end of base didn't break off. Put another plug in had. Plug popped broke off rest of base when caught a spark and fuel saw it under hood ignite and pop up with fuel flash from ignition. LOL =) Charged battery over night since was starting to run down. Had another coil pack new was good have used to diagnose another issue but wasn't coil pack still same wants to kick but doesn't. Put a new O2 Sensor on last tune up since other sensor was bad could the new sensor have shorted somehow like cam sensor and is causing a issue too? Car was running but started to misfire and RPMS went lower at idle when stopped drove down the street barely got to next stop and when came to that stop it stalled and wouldn't restart. Was like something was going down hill as was driving and ultimately failed? Could a new Cam Sensor go bad or O2 sensor develop a short somehow that keeps the car from starting up? Checked temp sensor with TORQUE app that was the same temp as outside temperature being the car hadn't run showed correct temperature that was new also.
Cleaned and checked all the plugs on car attached to cam and crank sensor wiring was good took plugs apart to remove the metal contacts clean and fine too. Fuel Pressure is fine checked that after towed home. Using TORQUE APP and OBDLINK port adapter crank was registering RPM while turning engine with starter researching RPM is fed from crank sensor. After cleaning up plugs and reseating acts like it wants to kick but does not. A plug popped out Champion putting in new plugs a while back felt like one was twisting off only to find out wasn't stripping plug threads in head but base twisted off. Using a screw extractor lucky got base out with tip still attached to end of base didn't break off. Put another plug in had. Plug popped broke off rest of base when caught a spark and fuel saw it under hood ignite and pop up with fuel flash from ignition. LOL =) Charged battery over night since was starting to run down. Had another coil pack new was good have used to diagnose another issue but wasn't coil pack still same wants to kick but doesn't. Put a new O2 Sensor on last tune up since other sensor was bad could the new sensor have shorted somehow like cam sensor and is causing a issue too? Car was running but started to misfire and RPMS went lower at idle when stopped drove down the street barely got to next stop and when came to that stop it stalled and wouldn't restart. Was like something was going down hill as was driving and ultimately failed? Could a new Cam Sensor go bad or O2 sensor develop a short somehow that keeps the car from starting up? Checked temp sensor with TORQUE app that was the same temp as outside temperature being the car hadn't run showed correct temperature that was new also.
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Narrowing down here...
New Cam Sensor didn't work but noticed the old sensor that was new the internals were loose and slide out of the base of cam sensor wasn't supposed to do loose on a new cam sensor. New one installed is tight.
Looking more at the Crank Sensor now could be the new crank sensor failed TORQUE APP was showing 113 RPM's but doing more research some computers need to see over 200RPMs before computer starts to really kick the spark and fuel injectors. Could be the new O2 sensor the heater part shorted somehow and is causing a parasitic power drain on sensor system. Checked all the plugs at sensor showing 5v reference and the ground was showing 12v. Sensors are getting power and ground is good to them. Checked EVAP plug too the grease was old on that cleaned that up wiring was fine to it and metal contacts inside plug not corroded. Had to stop for a bit somehow tow truck driver with strap over wheel on drivers side broke the brake like at the wheel cylinder it was leaking so got a new brake hose and have to bleed brakes after getting car to start. LOL =) Keeping a update where going. Helps anyone? Does Chrysler have a certain RPM computer needs to see before it starts kicking the coil pack to fire and fuel injectors to fire?
New Cam Sensor didn't work but noticed the old sensor that was new the internals were loose and slide out of the base of cam sensor wasn't supposed to do loose on a new cam sensor. New one installed is tight.
Looking more at the Crank Sensor now could be the new crank sensor failed TORQUE APP was showing 113 RPM's but doing more research some computers need to see over 200RPMs before computer starts to really kick the spark and fuel injectors. Could be the new O2 sensor the heater part shorted somehow and is causing a parasitic power drain on sensor system. Checked all the plugs at sensor showing 5v reference and the ground was showing 12v. Sensors are getting power and ground is good to them. Checked EVAP plug too the grease was old on that cleaned that up wiring was fine to it and metal contacts inside plug not corroded. Had to stop for a bit somehow tow truck driver with strap over wheel on drivers side broke the brake like at the wheel cylinder it was leaking so got a new brake hose and have to bleed brakes after getting car to start. LOL =) Keeping a update where going. Helps anyone? Does Chrysler have a certain RPM computer needs to see before it starts kicking the coil pack to fire and fuel injectors to fire?
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Narrowing down more....
Looking at Timing Belt now. Hopefully haven't crunched valves if off a tooth or two, timing belt is not broken only 3 years old looking through inspection cover on timing cover the cam pulley is turning. Might be a tooth or two off creating a cam sensor and crank sensor out of sync setup. Looked over all wiring. If not out of sync timing wise maybe the computer fried?
Looking at Timing Belt now. Hopefully haven't crunched valves if off a tooth or two, timing belt is not broken only 3 years old looking through inspection cover on timing cover the cam pulley is turning. Might be a tooth or two off creating a cam sensor and crank sensor out of sync setup. Looked over all wiring. If not out of sync timing wise maybe the computer fried?
