Giving this another shot since you guys helped get me there the first time.

Working on a 2003 Dodge Neon, 2.0 SOHC 4 cylinder with a manual transmission. Ran pretty good when I was initially testing it out, but now seems the oil pressure light comes on when downshifting (or really anytime the clutch is getting used a lot - student driver...) It takes a bit of driving to come on, but once lit, it flickers on or off seemingly in response to the shifting. Shift up, accelerate, and the light goes off. Downshifting or braking the light comes on (along with the alarm chime), and stays on until speeding up again. I pulled over and sat in idle, and the light remained. Checked oil level, all was normal. Killed the engine, let it sit for 10-15, and then fired it up again with no light. Drive down the road for a mile or so, light comes back on and returns to previous speed up / light off / slow down / light on pattern...

Now, Internet lore would have me believe that we should be replacing the Oil Pressure Sensor Switch, but that doesn't make sense to me as this seems more of a transmission/clutch issue? The switch replacement seems simple enough, (once you remove the battery and contort your body to reach behind the block that is...), but I don't want to ignore a greater issue with the transmission by doing so. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. New to this whole DIY mechanical thing, but no better time than the present to learn something new right?!?

 

How many miles on the engine? Personally, I'd hook a mechanical oil pressure gauge to the engine. If it flutters, you have an issue in the engine. Ranging from major (worn bearings) to minor (crap blocking the oil pickup). If nothing else, get an aftermarket electrical oil pressure gauge and see what that does. If different gauges don't show any problems, a new sendig unit is in order.

Have you gotten used to the car getting the hiccups yet? Those who have taught a new driver to drive a clutch will know what I mean. I had trouble learning to drive an automatic when I started. I drove farm equipment and when I got my license, it was nearly 2 years before I drove an automatic. Then dad got a '67 Ford Galaxie with a wide power brake pedal instead of the '61 Valiant with a heavy clutch. When I stabbed the clutch on the Ford, it stopped REALLY quick. About a week before I quit slamming the brakes.

 

Thanks for the tip on the mechanical oil pressure gauge. I've seen that mentioned a few times, guess I should look into picking one up. My biggest concern was just that I was missing something else with the transmission so it seems like perhaps that's not as big a deal as I had imagined. As far as the mileage goes, it's right at 70K so not what I would think would be in the problem territory. I'll get the gauge and see what clarity that brings.

As far as the new driver goes, thankfully I'm not in the passenger seat on this one. I'm just helping a family out who needs some help. Fortunately for me they're on the hook to impart those lessons.

Thanks again!

 

With 70K on the engine, it may just be the sending unit. You may need to add a Tee fitting so the old sending unit can still be used along with another pressure gauge. This will keep the computer from shutting the engine down. If it's a booger to get to, I think I'd replace the sending unit. I looked at the Autozone site and a replacement is between $12 and $19. I'm not a fan of throwing parts at a problem, but if access is difficult, you have to pull the part anyway, I'd just put a new one in. If it still flickers, your oil ;pickup may be partially blocked. I've liked the Mopar 4 bangers for years. Very reliable and easy to work on. I used to autocross a Dodge Omni and all I did was swap tires.


I'll bet a new clutch is in the future for the new driver. It probably has the original and new drivers are rough on clutches. I wasn't but I had years of experience before I ever drove a car. I drove a 2 ton grain truck for years before I ever drove a car.