Anyone know anything about advancing timing?
#2
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What it does? ---it fires the spark earlier in the rotation of the crank/cam thereby potentially making more power (if not overdone) but it usually has some negative effects in any noticeable amounts: 1) Harder starting 2) requires higher octane fuel--slower burning--no knocking.
It's a fine trade off in a modern small displacement because using faster burning (low octane--cheaper) fuel actually gives you better power all things being equal. . . . but not all things are equal--advancing the timing is one thing that unequalizes it and is a means of gaining power. (so your idiot friend driving a luxury car that doesn't adjust for octane by knock detect and keeps putting in Chevron premium because "it'll run better" is fooling themselves. It's the techron that's making it run better. Buy the cheap stuff and put in a bottle of Techron every once in a while.)
Advance timing generally helps more in higher RPM. Retarding timing helps in lower and can provide more torque.
NOW. . . on a modern car timing can be advanced without generating problems starting, etc because it is electronically controlled. In the past a car used mechanical or vacuum advance to increase the ignition advance through the revs. now you can use an ignition controller to do it . . . or. . . .
To answer your question in short. . . .
For a Neon buy an aftermarket or Mopar PCM. This advances timing when needed and fuels a little differently at WOT too. Disadvantage: must run on premium fuel. There's only one other option and that is the Venom 400--this advances a little bit by tricking the computer into thinking it's got a cold intake charge and gives you power outside the WOT range. A good combination would be both a Venom 400 and a Mopar PCM and this would cost about $500 for both put together--cheaper than many ignition control systems and digital ignitions systems for the Neon--like MSD's.
Good luck.
It's a fine trade off in a modern small displacement because using faster burning (low octane--cheaper) fuel actually gives you better power all things being equal. . . . but not all things are equal--advancing the timing is one thing that unequalizes it and is a means of gaining power. (so your idiot friend driving a luxury car that doesn't adjust for octane by knock detect and keeps putting in Chevron premium because "it'll run better" is fooling themselves. It's the techron that's making it run better. Buy the cheap stuff and put in a bottle of Techron every once in a while.)
Advance timing generally helps more in higher RPM. Retarding timing helps in lower and can provide more torque.
NOW. . . on a modern car timing can be advanced without generating problems starting, etc because it is electronically controlled. In the past a car used mechanical or vacuum advance to increase the ignition advance through the revs. now you can use an ignition controller to do it . . . or. . . .
To answer your question in short. . . .
For a Neon buy an aftermarket or Mopar PCM. This advances timing when needed and fuels a little differently at WOT too. Disadvantage: must run on premium fuel. There's only one other option and that is the Venom 400--this advances a little bit by tricking the computer into thinking it's got a cold intake charge and gives you power outside the WOT range. A good combination would be both a Venom 400 and a Mopar PCM and this would cost about $500 for both put together--cheaper than many ignition control systems and digital ignitions systems for the Neon--like MSD's.
Good luck.
#4
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Sounds like you're not thinking anything radical right now such as a turbo. Consider cold air intake first, underdrive pulley next, then a cam. The first two aren't worth great gains compared to cost, but they'll help a little--as much as advancing the timing a few degress with an ignition controller. The cam would be a good way to go--it's not quite as hard as you might think to put in the SOHC but you should get yourself a manual.
None of those three will hurt gas mileage (too much) and none will require premium fuel.
None of those three will hurt gas mileage (too much) and none will require premium fuel.
#5
#6
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Oh. . . by the way, several people have reported that if the cam is on center from factory a retard of 2degrees has been the best for power across the wides range.
This is one mod I haven't done because after machinin my deck and my head the cam was about 1/2 dgree off. I decided I didn't want to buy the $300 cam sprocket. but it's a good investment for tuning, 'specially if you have a dyno handy or run at the track alot.
This is one mod I haven't done because after machinin my deck and my head the cam was about 1/2 dgree off. I decided I didn't want to buy the $300 cam sprocket. but it's a good investment for tuning, 'specially if you have a dyno handy or run at the track alot.