well, i had a little change of heart and got new headlights, bulbs, gauge faces, and gauge bezel instead of the exhaust and w/e else. But now i am set on getting the exhaust, if i were to get this exhaust (dyno max) is it just like the stock one except better made? or, is it a straight thru type. what i mean, is this: on a stock 95 exhaust, it goes from the left side of the car, and the rear section makes it go to the right side. instead of this, i am wanting an exhaust that goes on whatever side and stays on that side, if this is what the dynomax does, tell me to shutup, but if not, could someone point me to where i can find a straight thru type? thanks.

 

No, it routes it the same as stock routing it to the passenger side. You might be able to cut the pipe farther back and place the muffler straight the way you want it. I have seen this done before with the same style muffler, but I don't know if it was or wasn't a Dynomax. Get the measurements of the muffler and get under the rear and make sure it will fit before you buy it.[sm=smiley20.gif]

 

well, do you know of any other exhausts i can get that go straight thru? i dont want one that switches sides, i need the less restrictive as possible. thanks

 

any "aftermarket" for the neon is probably going to put in the same place--all the ones that I know of do. That's primarily because your concern about making that elbow 90 into the muffler loosing power isn't really that much of a concern. Trust me. You'll get more flow than a stock neon (or even a moderate modified) needs with the dynomax, flowmaster, etc., etc., 2.5 inch kits designed for the neon. If you're really gonna do a turbo and go ALL out, then have a shop weldup a 3 inch kit--but don't do it until you have the turbo. If for some reason you have to sell your neon next year and still don't have the turbo you'll get limited interested in the 3" ricer exhaust I think.

If you still have your heart set on shooting straight out the drivers side then just order any barrel, canister or open muffler you see fit and have your shop weld it on. It'll probably save you money. Or if you want to look and sound like a Civic then get one of those 5 inch cannisters with 4 inch out from JC Whitney and have the shop slap it on there--or just clamp it.

If you're really concerned (and apparently don't mind the noise) just have the shop split the pipe after the cat and run 45 degree out to just in front of the rear wheels. That would shorten the path and open it up. After all, behind the cat and in front of the rear axle it makes a 90 from the center of the car out to the drivers side to go around the trunk. Put Supertrapp's on both sides and then you'd be really stylin'.

You could even set up lake pipes so it looks like a cobra/viper.

(Sorry. Got a little carried away with my teasin')

 

hey thanks for your input. i have been looking around, and found the following items:

http://www.howellautomotive.com/Howe...roducts_id=172

http://www.howellautomotive.com/Howe...oducts_id=1085

Will these two pieces fit together when welded? and will this give me a bit more performance gain over the dynomax or should i get the dynomax, and have the shop cut off the muffler, and put on a custom one? thanks

 

Unless you are going with a turbocharger, stick with the 2 1/4" exhaust. Going larger will reduce the backpressure and will cost you torque as well as causing it to rev up slower. If you had a Crane cam, head work, intake manifold, throttle body, etc., then I would say to go with the 2 1/2" exhaust, because then it would need and want it larger.

 

I am eventually getting a hahn racecraft turbo, Stage II, but not for a couple of months. Before i get the turbo i won't be driving it much, just to school and back, which isn't much. So i am not worried about losing a little bit fo power for now. But i was wanting to get the exhaust before turbo so that i could have it installed already, less work for the turbo install. When i purchase the turbo kit, i will at the same time order the following: 55mm TB (let me know if this is too much), Crane camshafts, and cam gears, NOS Direct port system for 4-cylinders, and a couple of others. Based on this, would the 2.5 piping be ok for me?

 

Once you start talking turbo, that's when you want the most open flow you can get. I think you would be wisest, if you're really sincere about getting a turbo in a few months, to wait until you have the turbo. Run with the turbo and see how you like it. If you're right foot still isn't satisfied then have a shop weld up a 3 inch all the way back. Once you have the turbo in they'll know what you're after and work with you a little better, and a 3 inch without a turbo is totally useless--71RR is right, I've thrown on exhaust on more cars than just my neon and felt a little cheated until I bumped up performance elsewhere because torque was down.

Believe it or not, you can feel small, miniscule gains and losses in a car this light--especially when you drive it regularly.

So. . . really. Hold off your money burning a hole in your pocket until you have the turbo. It'll give you a much wider grin than the exhaust and the cost of the exhaust kit is a good 5 to 10% of the turbo kit already. Besides, for the first little while while you're testing out the turbo you'll be more of a sleeper.

Don't get me wrong. I love noise--I ripped out my exhaust and had a great shop custom fab a Flowmaster 80 series in with square bore tips. The muffler is tucked up far enough you can't see it and the outlets are pretty descreet--but it is very loud. I did that just to harrass all the coffee can Civics--it's much deeper and growly than their lawn mowers. . . but I think you'd be wise to hold off until you made a few more decisions/purchases since you don't have a specific route in mind already.