kg1687, Replace the door or at least through a skin onit the bondo will crack. I finished my full rear door replacement in febuary. A little pole at the dentist helped me modify my truck.

 

I rented a Milwaukee rotarybuffer once at a rental yard. It was perfect! You have to be careful not to hit any edges with it, or linger in one spot too long. I have a cheap 9" orbital buffer, but it seems like a POS compared to the Milwaukee. I believe the Milwaukee costs around $300. The Dewalt is probably a close second in terms of quality, and they cost a lot less. I would recommend going with a rotary buffer, and learn how to use it. Practice on the wife's car!

 

Where do you even get these "buffers"? I haven't seen them out there anywhere.

 

Here's one listed on Amazon.com: link It's less expensive than I thought.

I noticed one of the Amazon"customer reviews" has some advice for polishing cars:
[blockquote]
I had a body shop for 20 years, did a lot of high-end cars. Spend a zillion hours behind a polisher. Had a multi step polishing procedure. First you wet sand the car with 600 grit or 800 grit wet dry sandpaper. Then you use a true silky smooth tie on lambs wool bonnet and Dupont 606 hand application compound. (The secret is after going over the car the first time with the 606S compound, put on a fresh lambs wool bonnet, and go over the car a second time. It is amazing how it improves the gloss. That way you have a true polished surface to build your protection on. Then use liquid ebony to eliminate the swirl marks, then Maguire's machine glaze, and then hand glaze. People couldn't help but come over and ask you about the finish on the car. Three new bonnets are required) Anyhow, 1750 rpm's didn't do something, like warm up the finish enough to give you mind blowing gloss. The 5540 gives you up to 2800 RPM's with a speed setting dial, so you can tweak it in to the desired speed, which is 2400 for, automotive.
[/blockquote]

 

You've got a snowballs chance in hell of finding me taking a piece of sandpaper to my truck.

That's just CRAZY talk !!!

 

Hahahaha, it's going to get worse before it gets better? I don't think I'd take sand paper. I've scratched mine, put dents in it. But i'm not going to take sand paper to it. that's mental. I also don't spend that much time cleaning it because it's going to get dirty again very soon anyways.

 

I wet sandedmy 2000 Chrysler 300M about two years ago. I wanted to get the swirl marks out of the black paint.The paintlooked really hazy and dull when I was done. I think it was 1000 grit paper. Then I polished it with Meguir's #2, then Meguir's #9, then #36 Yellow Wax. It looked really friggin good when I was done. If I had to do it again I might try 800 grit instead. If you want to try it yourself, the key is to be very gentle and use plenty of water. Avoid edges and raised areas, or perhaps sand them very lightly so you don't cut through the clear coat. Oh, and before you start sanding you should go over the entire surface with mineral spirits or Prep-Sol to remove any traces of waxes or silicones.

 

anything less than 1000 grit is way to course, even 1000 a little rough for buffing. the compounding systems nowadays are mainly geared for getting 100 and finer scratches out, any product that will get 600 or 800 grit scratches out is just filling and not actually removing, it will look good for awhile but will start lookin crappy pretty quickly.

 

this'll git-r-done