2006 2500 diesel getting 10 MPG
ORIGINAL: solarwarp
Hello,
I have an 07 Ram 5.9L, 4x4, Quad cab, short bed, auto and Edge EZ. I just went over 12,000 miles yesterday.
My meter shows better, but when I calculate it I get 14 or 15 babying it around town and up to 18 on longer drives on the highway letting everyone pass me at 60. (Edge EZ switched to 2)
On a recent trip to and from Laredo, about 370 miles, my meter showed 22; but actually I got a little over 19mpg. (Going 70mph.) That was with the EZ set to 3.
Hello,
I have an 07 Ram 5.9L, 4x4, Quad cab, short bed, auto and Edge EZ. I just went over 12,000 miles yesterday.
My meter shows better, but when I calculate it I get 14 or 15 babying it around town and up to 18 on longer drives on the highway letting everyone pass me at 60. (Edge EZ switched to 2)
On a recent trip to and from Laredo, about 370 miles, my meter showed 22; but actually I got a little over 19mpg. (Going 70mph.) That was with the EZ set to 3.
I just installed an Edge Comp box and I'm running it in level 2, which is the same as level 3 for you with the EZ. I know another guy who said he gets even better mileage set at level 3 than he did on level 2 so we'll see. ANY improvement in mileage is better than what I'm getting right now.
I bought my truck about a month and a half ago. I had to dirve it home about 300 miles. I got 12 mpg at 75 mph. I drove it for a while and I started reading this forum and found out that it should do much better. I changed the oil, air filter, and fuel filter about two weeks ago. My last tank I got 16 mpg (city/hwy). I also towed a 10k pound trailer the day after I changed everything. I don't know what the difference maker was, but it was one of those things. BTW my truck has 77k miles. Hope you find a solution. Keep us posted.
Temperature is not what breaks an engine in. Break-in consists of wear...you have to wear the parts so they fit better with each other, that's the basic premise. Certainly, an engine should operate at it's designed temp range, but running an engine hot is not only bad for it, but NOT how to break one in...maybe a way the break one though.
There's lots of saying out there and beliefs about how to break-in an engine....for example, you may or may not have heard these:
"Break it in just like you're gonna drive it"
"Baby it during the break-in, then romp on it when it is"
The fact is, neither of these methods is particularly accurate. Engines have been blown using both methods and engines have lasted way beyond design spec by using these methods. Maintenance is usually the key along the way.
One thing that can make fora bad break-in is using too good of an oil during the break-in period...yep, you read that right. Remember, a break-in is about wearing the engine, and wearing the parts together so the rings seal in the cylinder better, so the bearings and crank match to each other better, etc (think if it as if a machinist is lapping parts for a perfect fit). A top of the line oil has the potential to prevent the necessary wear during the break-in and can lead to issues. Combining a good oil and babying the engine is probably the worst case scenario. Generally this leads to glazed cylinder walls which means mileage issues and various other things.
In the aviation world,rebuilt or new piston engines are filled with Aero Shell 100 oil (notorious as a poor choice of oil for long term use) specifically because it does allow this wear on the engine much faster than a good oil will. It is used as a break-in oil so the break-in period is shortened.
So, temperature is important yes,but only within the range the engine was designed to run.
There's lots of saying out there and beliefs about how to break-in an engine....for example, you may or may not have heard these:
"Break it in just like you're gonna drive it"
"Baby it during the break-in, then romp on it when it is"
The fact is, neither of these methods is particularly accurate. Engines have been blown using both methods and engines have lasted way beyond design spec by using these methods. Maintenance is usually the key along the way.
One thing that can make fora bad break-in is using too good of an oil during the break-in period...yep, you read that right. Remember, a break-in is about wearing the engine, and wearing the parts together so the rings seal in the cylinder better, so the bearings and crank match to each other better, etc (think if it as if a machinist is lapping parts for a perfect fit). A top of the line oil has the potential to prevent the necessary wear during the break-in and can lead to issues. Combining a good oil and babying the engine is probably the worst case scenario. Generally this leads to glazed cylinder walls which means mileage issues and various other things.
In the aviation world,rebuilt or new piston engines are filled with Aero Shell 100 oil (notorious as a poor choice of oil for long term use) specifically because it does allow this wear on the engine much faster than a good oil will. It is used as a break-in oil so the break-in period is shortened.
So, temperature is important yes,but only within the range the engine was designed to run.
Thanks guys for all the help so far. I filled the tank last week and drove the truck like a baby , never taking it over 2k rpm. I did also tow my 12k dump trailer for about 45 miles.
So this tank full I hand calculated at 12 mpg. Bettr then I was doing but nowhere close to what I should be getting.
Any more ideas would be appreciated. I am also going to change the oil, oill filter, and air filter to see if it helps.
So this tank full I hand calculated at 12 mpg. Bettr then I was doing but nowhere close to what I should be getting.
Any more ideas would be appreciated. I am also going to change the oil, oill filter, and air filter to see if it helps.
The formulas for air resistance and so forth are in this article written for truck drivers:
http://www.etrucker.com/content/downloads/ccj0302.p
well worth reading.
Both Car and Driver and Consumer Reports magazine have found that the Cummins Ram 6.7 combined with ULSD fuel is giving much lower MPG than past Cummins Rams.
old post:
====
The September 2007 issue of Consumer Reports arrived
and has an article on page 52 reviewing full size pickups
with most written on 1500 models
but they did test 3/4 ton diesels from Dodge, GM and Ford
and had all gasoline and diesel pickups tow the same 7400 lb trailer.
High Points:
Consumers Reports says that the reliability of the Ram has now
improved enough that they make it a 'recommended' pick.
Low points:
The new diesels with the new emissions and ULSD fuel
all showed quite low MPG in 'mixed' driving and towing the 7400 lb trailer:
Ford 250 6.4L........10 MPG mixed....8.7 MPG towing
GM 6.6 Duramax....13 MPG mixed...10.4 MPG towing
Dodge 6.7. diesel...13 MPG mixed...10 MPG towing
Dodge 5.7gas........13 MPG mixed....8.2 MPG towing
The Toyota Tundra 5.7 was 15 MPG mixed and 8.4 towing
and pulled the 7400 lb trailer to 60 mph in 16.1 seconds
versus 18.9 seconds for the Ford Powerstroke
versus same 18.9 seconds for Dodge 6.7 Cummins
and 17.0 seconds for the Chevy Duramax.
Consumer Reports writes that they dislike the ride of the Tundra
and prefer the ride of the new Silverado.
The Dodge Ram matched the Tundra on dry braking from 60 mph
with 153 feet for each. It is good to see Ram brakes up to snuff finally.
sample quote:
"The Dodge Ram 1500 has improved since the last time we tested it in 2004.
It rides and handles better, and it is quieter."
This issue of Consumers Reports has
"Stop ID thieves"
on a blue cover
http://www.etrucker.com/content/downloads/ccj0302.p
well worth reading.
Both Car and Driver and Consumer Reports magazine have found that the Cummins Ram 6.7 combined with ULSD fuel is giving much lower MPG than past Cummins Rams.
old post:
====
The September 2007 issue of Consumer Reports arrived
and has an article on page 52 reviewing full size pickups
with most written on 1500 models
but they did test 3/4 ton diesels from Dodge, GM and Ford
and had all gasoline and diesel pickups tow the same 7400 lb trailer.
High Points:
Consumers Reports says that the reliability of the Ram has now
improved enough that they make it a 'recommended' pick.
Low points:
The new diesels with the new emissions and ULSD fuel
all showed quite low MPG in 'mixed' driving and towing the 7400 lb trailer:
Ford 250 6.4L........10 MPG mixed....8.7 MPG towing
GM 6.6 Duramax....13 MPG mixed...10.4 MPG towing
Dodge 6.7. diesel...13 MPG mixed...10 MPG towing
Dodge 5.7gas........13 MPG mixed....8.2 MPG towing
The Toyota Tundra 5.7 was 15 MPG mixed and 8.4 towing
and pulled the 7400 lb trailer to 60 mph in 16.1 seconds
versus 18.9 seconds for the Ford Powerstroke
versus same 18.9 seconds for Dodge 6.7 Cummins
and 17.0 seconds for the Chevy Duramax.
Consumer Reports writes that they dislike the ride of the Tundra
and prefer the ride of the new Silverado.
The Dodge Ram matched the Tundra on dry braking from 60 mph
with 153 feet for each. It is good to see Ram brakes up to snuff finally.
sample quote:
"The Dodge Ram 1500 has improved since the last time we tested it in 2004.
It rides and handles better, and it is quieter."
This issue of Consumers Reports has
"Stop ID thieves"
on a blue cover
Check you computer and see if there are any fault codes using the 3 click method. It could be running in limp mode because of a bad sensor or computer problem. Just because your CEL light isn't on, does not mean that you don't have any codes.
I got a P0217 and the truck went into limp mode because the thermostat wire shorted out. Thecomputer thought that the engine overheated and the CEL light never came on.
I got a P0217 and the truck went into limp mode because the thermostat wire shorted out. Thecomputer thought that the engine overheated and the CEL light never came on.
i just went outside and snapped a pic of my exhaust spacers (or atleast thats what i thought they were[:-]) and if they are the exhaust spacers you were talking about super dave they look almost asif they are burning uneven... the ones towrds the front seem to be darker than the ones sin the back but maybe i see it wrong?!?!

and here is the one in the DIY section that you were talking about...


and here is the one in the DIY section that you were talking about...

ORIGINAL: DiEseLjunKy
People with new trucks claiming 18 mpg are pulling your leg or looking at the overhead which is nototrious for being optimistic.
People with new trucks claiming 18 mpg are pulling your leg or looking at the overhead which is nototrious for being optimistic.
This is all rural driving and only about 10% highway.
I do expect it to go down here where I live as it gets colder and they start using the winter blend around here.
10 mpg, you must have something wrong.
i get 12-12.5 in the city, and around 13 on freeway doing 70-75 all unloaded all with 21k on my truck (and 4:10 gear).... maybe this will make you appreciate your truck more[:-]



