Its all about the additives, and generally synthetic has more of them. But what all the additives do and how much more there are I have no idea.

Alright I googled it, and from what I can gather synthetics are basically "heavier duty" than regular petroleum oils. They withstand higher heat, have better wear resistance, better corrosion resistance, etc. But most of what I found was regarding engine oil, so not sure if that all carries over to gear lube, but I wouldn't think there would be much difference.

 

I’m not sure about your 2003 but I do know my 2006 came with Synthetic gear oil from the factory and that is what went back in to it when I change my gear oil. Anyway you may get by using the cheap gear oil from Wally World, my self I would not use it and take the chance of ruining a set of gears. I think the old saying is pay now or pay more latter when it breaks down comes to mind. Just be aware that the Wally World gear oil that may or may not hold up when towing for a full 15,000-mile service interval.

JMHO

 

All's I know is that my friend told me that Strange axles won't warranty their product if anything other than petrolium oil is used.

Synthetics = loss of warranty

 

Thats what I'm trying to find out is if synthetic was what was in there and if that is what has to go back in. I know alot of you have your brand preferences, but personally I think 2 different brand names that have the same certifications are the same oil. SuperTech is Quaker State, Penzoil or some other brand with a different tag on it. I agree with pay now or pay later, but I don't think that you need to spend the kind of money for Amsoil or the other expensive brands.Just my opinion.

 

it's synthetic oil for the diffs but honestly doubt dino oil will do any harm. The GL rating has to do with the specs of it GL5 is usually used in diffs for the hypoid gears (w/e tht means saw it on a jeepforum) but for example I can't use GL5 in the tranny on my jeep because GL5 has sulfur in it and the synchros in my jeep are brass, sulfur reacts with brass and eats it soo gotta use gl4

 

I know everyone has their brand preference but I also think that it comes down to proper maintenance. I think it's okay to use cheaper oil, especially when it's made by a larger manufacturer, as long as it's changed at it proper intervals.

 

the only lubricant in our trucks from the factory that is not synthetic is the dino juice in the engine. . .everything else, trans, transfer, axels, grease, is all synthetic.

can you get away with useing dino in the axels. . .you can, however dino will break down rather quick if your not carefull. synthetics are able to handle higher shock loadings and can handle higher temps and stresses than dino.

just to put a perspective on things. this is what I'm having to do from the improper use of oil. syncros shot, thrust bearings out of tollerance, and mega sludge in the case with the magnets covered in so much metal nothing else will stick. I'm quite a bit smarter and wiser about makeing sure I'm useing the correct oils, or oils that perform better for their use.



will that wally world super tech work. . .it will, but for how long?

 

I don't know about that ...

I think if you were smarter or wiser you would have set that mess up on a TABLE instead of working on the floor ...

[sm=icon_rofl.gif]

 

only problem I have, my work bench isnt put together yet. . .been too buisy getting other issues resolved.

besides, with it on the floor like that if I drop something it wont go far

 

I checked the manual, I see where it says to put synthetic in the diff's, but it doesn't say to use synthetic in the transfer case. I changed that with ATF+4, the old stuff was still cherry. How often do you change the manual tranny fluid?