makin an up grades list for my 1st gen...
ORIGINAL: Drew
if your gunna do an e-brake you will need to get some 60# valve springs or you'll float a valve when the thing kicks on.
if your gunna do an e-brake you will need to get some 60# valve springs or you'll float a valve when the thing kicks on.
ORIGINAL: Kev_n_AZ
so Ill have to remove the head from the engine. that old of a p[ower plant, I would hate to remove it and cause new issues..
ORIGINAL: Drew
if your gunna do an e-brake you will need to get some 60# valve springs or you'll float a valve when the thing kicks on.
if your gunna do an e-brake you will need to get some 60# valve springs or you'll float a valve when the thing kicks on.
Actually you can replace them without pulling the head. What you do is rotate the engine so that the cylinder your workin on is a tdc. This will keep the valve from falling out of the head. They make a special spring compressor to remove the spring without pullin the head. I believe napa or autzone sells them.
heres what I have learned so far:
to upgrade exhaust from 3" to 4" stright pipe,I have to change turbos. mine lacks the bolt on plate. the exhaust just uses a band to attach to the turbo housing.
my turbo has NO waste gate.
an intake elbow would help greatly!!
add a second battery
exhaust brake requires torque convertor control unit.
to upgrade exhaust from 3" to 4" stright pipe,I have to change turbos. mine lacks the bolt on plate. the exhaust just uses a band to attach to the turbo housing.
my turbo has NO waste gate.
an intake elbow would help greatly!!
add a second battery
exhaust brake requires torque convertor control unit.




