Hello my friends, hope everyone and their rigs are doing well.

I finally got the pre luber installed and I wanted to share my personal opinion on the whole thing. Over all I am thrilled with what this unit does. Most of you already know but I'll cover it real quick. There is an electric pump that pulls oil from the oil pan, pumps it thru a secondary filter, and then enters the engine block. The pump pressurizes the entire eng PLUS the turbo before you even crank her over. At the moment my setup is giving me about 21-23psi of oil pressure created by the luber pump.

The pump is controlled by a nice, compact, dual timer ECM. It has two adjustable timers on it. One for pre lube, one for post lube. Up to 3 mins pre and a max of 6 mins for post lube.

This is already saving me on fuel by eliminating any idle time. Before you crank the truck, turn the key, or flip the switch, and she's pumping away. Timer shuts down the prelube cyle after the set amount of time expires. Post lube cycleoccurs when you turn off the switch or shut off the truck. It's all automatic.

If you choose to use the supplied wiring harness, it's a very simple install. Overall the harness could be longer and a larger gauge wire used. You guys know me. I'm the elctrical MASTER....lol. The ECM is supposed to be mounted under the hood. I keep the unit in the cab mounted to the lower center dash. That's my "command" center. All the sensative electronics are kept inside.

Anyway, I used the ECM to open and close a relay. You know the deal, let a relay handle the motor load. You only need to pass a single wire thru the firewall from the ECM to the relay. Now for you electrical nuts, here's the weird part.

The ECM only opens and closes the ground. When you hook the harness to the battery it runs a fused, constantly hot wire to the motor. Then theECM just closes the ground. To me this is not favorable. The full amperage of the motor runs thru the cab to the ecm thru that single wire. Plus, even though it's afused power wire, I don't like the idea of the lube pump having constant power. Thats why I used the relay. I would heavily suggest it.

The plumbing is very simple. A 1/2" id hose goes from my oil plug (modified plug comes with kit), to the instake side of the pump. For my mounting choice I have a 2-3/4' length of hose from the oilpan to the pump. At the pump I have the check valve mounted. From the check valve a length of hose runs to the remote filter. Then from the remote filter, a hose runs to the drivers side of the engine block.

When the pump is activated, oil is pulled from the oil pan and pumped thru the check valve, into the remote filter, and into the engine block. It's that simple. Trust me when I say this....... when you shut the truck off and the pump is running, if you bend down on the driver side wheel well area, you can hear the oil raining down back into the pan. It's WILD. I put a stethescope all over the motor. You can hear it spraying into the valve covers. You can hear it flowing thru the turbo supply line. You can hear it going thru the aux cooler up front. It's a sweet setup.


And I will post pics when I land a camera.

Don't give me that [sm=ttiwwp.gif]........lol. I will come yank the bumper off your dodge and sell it for scrap.....lmao.


Now, here are my findings with the plumbing:

1. I originally plumbed the hose so the pump was pumping into the truck filter head. You can see the spare tap right next to the turbo supply line. The tap is 1/8 npt. I thought this would be a good place to pump oil but not so. Our engines have a relief valve that opens up at 65 psi oil pressure and allows oil to fall back into the pan. I would be pumping the wrong way against that valve. Most oil filters also have a check rubber in the filter to stop backflow. There's no doubt the turbo was being flooded with oil when the pump ran. Problem is there wasn't much oil getting thru to the motor.

So now I have to relocate the hose. There is no other place (in my mind) to plumb the line other than at the oil pressure sending switch. This is a 1/8 npt thread into the block. It's in tight right next to the power steering pump. You will never struggle like I did to make this modification......lol. I hope not anyway.

I bought a new oil press switch so I could destroy the old one to get it off. It's a 1-1/16" nut. Your socket needs to be about 4 inches deep though. I just broke the switch off and access to the nut was easy. Now where the sending unit screwed into the block I installed a 1/8 npt hose barb. The biggest I found was for 3/8" hose. More than big enough for the 6 inch piece you would need. From the barb on the block is that 6 inch piece of hose. The other end is another barb screwed into a 1/8 npt tee. The top of the tee is where I relocated the sending unit. The third tap in the tee is where the hose from the pre lube pump is plumbed.

Now you have the pre lube line plumbed directly into an oil galley. It's the proper place to introduce oil, no doubt.

That's about the jist of it. I have a 1 min 3 sec pre lube time and a 4 min 6 second post lube time. I also have two indicator lamps to mount near the switch in the cab.One light will tell me when the ECM is closed and the other will light up when the pump is running. I used a second lamp so in case the relay ever stuck I would see it from the lamp being energized past the timers settings. I also placed a push button switch in line with the ECM signal wire. Now I can have total control of the pump. The ECM can cycle but I can shut the pump down by interrupting that single wire going to the relay for the motor. I cycle it 10 times a day sometimes. No major draw on the batteries. The winter time will be when the motor is working hard. I can't wait to see the difference when it's 0 degrees out.

Did you get all that?.lol.

Remember that the oil pressure switch has to be grounded or you will get no gauge reading. (factory gauge). I used a pipe ground around the brass tee and grounded the wire to the battery. Works like a charm.

To sum it up, I am totally impressed with the unit. I have mine mounted up front on the outside of the pass frame rail. Ahead of the wheel well and liner. It doesn't seem to get wet there. I will fasion some type of cover to help protect thepump anyway.

One thing that is very noticable is how much faster the engine turns during cranking.I truly believe this even lightens the load on the starter from the reduction of friction.

When you shut the truck and grab hold of the oil line, it's pretty hot. Do 6 mins of pumping and the hose temp drops considerably. This is the oil removing heat from the engine and the turbo bearings.

The unit also has a built in bypass line for when the vehicle oil pump starts creating pressure. They reccomend starting the vehicle when there is about 5 seconds left in the pre lube cycle. If I need to crank sooner I just shut the pump off with the little push button switch. The light will tell me when the pre cycle is thru. I push the switch again and now the pump is online for the post lube cycle. I got it ALL covered......lol.

Anyway, my fingers are beat...lol.

I will get the pics.

Oh, and one more thing. The hose has a quick disconnect that you uncouple. Then stick the hose (you will need to make a short tail piece) into a bucket and start the pump. You will never have to get underneath the truck and get dirty with the oilpan plug. It never gets removed.

The pump pumps it all out. No more priming filters either. The luber will take care of that as well. Both filters.Makes installing the truck filter much easier!!!!!.lol.

Ok my friends, I hope I covered it all. If not, you know where to find me. I give it two thumbs up !!!!!!

Peace my friends and good luck with all our rides.

http://www.pre-luber.com/index.htm

 

Greatreview! I've been wondering and waiting for comments about this pre-luber ever since I first heard you had one. Sounds like an excellent investment in engine longevity.

 

[sm=ttiwwp.gif]


[sm=icon_rofl.gif]You knew that was comming right ??



Congrats on the install !! I'm glad to hear that it all went well. Now then, instead of blowing your wad on high dollar hookers, how about investing a little on a camera and just getting ahooker with no teeth next time?

 

You sure seem to know a lot about prostitution and the going rates. Makes me worry. I hope we don't see you on the next episode of "The First 48 Hours".

LOL........just kidding buddy. This thing is working great! I've had at least 2 dozen guys in parking lots ask "what's running" when I shut the truck off. Every time I give them the tour....lol.

I can't wait till it's 10 degrees out.

Ttyl.

 

Make/model/source/cost of this fabulous device?

 

 

esp Here's the site: http://www.pre-luber.com/preluberkits.htm


I have the TP97011. Comes with everything you see listed.

(select "accessories" at the top of the page) This is what I bought in addition:


Quick Disconnect - QD97003

In Line Filter & Housing - LF99022

I also bought 18 feet of hose to accomodate any situation I may have run into for mounting locations and hose lengths. It can be plumbed with the supplied amount of hose. I have a 7 foot length for oil changes.

My total with all my personal"ad ons"is right under $960.00.I added a few electrical perks for my own enjoyment...lol.I go for ease....lol. Let the UPS guy bring as much as possible to me.

I have noticed a moderate fuel savings from cutting out all the idling. It makes a difference for me. I used to let my truck idle all over the place...lol. Now diesel is $4.89 a gallon where I live.


You could def save a few bucks is you bought only the pump, ECM, and the filter adapter, (CFA98003). The hose and fittings are common items as well.

Hope that helps.

Good luck with your ride.

 

Thanks for the info. Any thoughts on how that system stacks up against Amsoil's AMS-Oiler Pre Charger?

 

Pre luber uses spring pressure to prelube, no after run protection, when you run it builds pressure in an accumulator and then releases the pressure when you turn the key on.