Salute! st2pd! Very rare a dealer mechanic is allowed to go above and beyond what is layed out in the DC trouble shooting procedures. Either your service manager is truly customer friendly or he doesn't know of your actions. Its truly good to see someone actually cares about the customer, just like the old days! If there where just more like you, dealers would more then likely look a lot better in the eyes of those who spent so much money for their purchases.

I had a problem some time ago with poor performance, poor mileage and a lope at idle. Took my truck into DC figuring injectors, two days later the service writer informs me "unable to dupilcate issue" "truck is in good working order", only to go to parking lot start truck and have the poor idle, engine lope and smoke!? Needless to say I was not impressed. Because like so many, I make my living with my truck, so I had to get it running right. I took my truck to a diesel truck shop, one day later, I had 6 new injectors! My fault as I was running one of those "pressure boxes" it overfueled and caused severe carbon build up (no extended idle times). Now I was perfectily willing to pay for new injectors from DC although at over $7000 to replace em I was happy DC didn't diagnose the problem, cause the diesel shop charged me $3200 installed new tubes and injectors! And DC wonders why people have a grudge!?

As for your customers truck, injector tubes leaking due to improper torquing, cracked injector body or combination of both. Leaking injector or tubes can leak back after the engine is shut down causing the rise in oil level...explains why you don't see any smoke while engine is running. The return test is probably the best test when injectors are in the engine. Other then actually pulling the injectors and inspecting them.

Just my humble opinion and experience.

 

I took my truck back to the dealer where I bought it along with the oil analysis. They looked at it and determined that the idle time was very high, which would tend to add diesel to the oil during the regeneration process. Watermelon seems to be on the right track. They changed the oil and filter and gave the truck back to me. This truck was at the dealer for almost a year before I bought it, so who knows how many times it was moved. Also, the regeneration process must be completed or it starts all over again the next time the engine is run. I had made some short trips with the truck which may have added to the problem. The EVIC calculates how much oil is in the carnk case based on the regnerations and idle time. When the calculation reaches 5%, it lights the "Change Oil" indicator. My light did not go on.
One thing I did learn was that the oil fill cap must be removed when changing the oil to allow the CCV filter to drain. Otherwise all of the oil may not drain out and adding in the 12 quarts of new oil would overfill it. This was not the case for my truck since it still had the original oil in it, but it is good to know for when I do change it.
For now I am driving the truck for moderate distances only (around 20 to 30 miles one way). I also am not letting the truck idle. Hopefully this will solve the problem. I also plan to do SpLaT's temperature check, it sounds like a great idea. If this solves the problem it sure seems like this truck is picky about how it has to be run.
Thanks again to all who have replied!

 

the dealership has blamed the issued with my truck on contaminated fuel, which automatically voids insurance. the truck fires up and dies when its cold out (-20C) at around -10 it will fire up and stay running but it bogs lots, at -20 it dies and i have to keep refirin to get it to stay runnin...
so i wanna take a sample of my fuel and send it out to get analyzed so that if its not contaminated i have goo backup against my dealer ship.
how do i know which is the return line so that i can unhook it and get a cup full of fuel??
what do you guys recommend i do with my truck...its fully warrantied...

 

Thank you for the kind words. As I view it, the customer is the one that provides me a means to make a living so taking care of them should be most important part of my job. No customers-no pay, right? Happy customers are the only ones I want and I will do my best to keep them happy. I post responses sometimes just because dealers are getting dogged and I know that there are a lot of good techs out there working at dealers that feel the same way I do that never get any positive responses. Dealer's bad reps are due mostly to the pay system most of them use, which the tech only gets paid for the time the manufacturer says it takes. Spending time on a hard to daignose or intermittent failure results in the tech making no money for the time spent trying to find the fault. This results in a low paycheck and the dealer coming down on them for not producing a certain labor income for the business. This causes the tech to rush repairs so they can get to next project that may make him and the company money so he will not lose his job. I get bothered all the time by management as to why my production is lower than some other guys and no matter how much I explain, it falls on deaf ears. Fortunately my service manager understands and that is probably why I get most of the problem cars. Aside from my long rant, I do not agree that engine off fuel pressure leakdown could cause an increase in oil level. The injector return pressure is almost zero in these engines and cannot get into the combustion chamber or the engine oil without other problems being very visible. If the copper seal at the bottom of the injector was allowing fuel to dribble in after the engine is shut down, it would also allow the high pressure combustion gas into the return flow with the engine running. A cracked injector would cause a problem while running if it is below the hold down flange and would also cause high return volume but has no route to get into the engine. If it is cracked above the flange it could leak into the oil but I have maxed the pressure and no leaks are visible under a uv light or without. A leaking connector tube will cause a hard start, long crank time or no start due to the fuel being bypassed into the fuel tank. Again the return route has no way of getting into the oil other than the rubber seal under the flange which is not leaking. Remember that the injector return is at most a dribble and cannot push past the o-rings under the flange even if a connector tube was leaking and if a connector was leaking it would cause other problems that would be more noticeable than a high oil level. Man, long post huh. I happily accept any helpful critisism if you have another explanation.

 

I would just open the drain valve on the fuel filter and collect the fuel, just make sure you don't get any other debris in the sample.

 

I have a problem with fuel in the oil of my 2007 6.7L as well. I have been changing the oil at approx 5,000-mile intervals, and sending a sample to Blackstone each time. The first oil analysis showed 9% fuel, at which time the engine had 8,000 miles on it. The next one showed 5.5% at 13,000 miles, and most recently it was down to 4% fuel with about 18,000 miles on the odometer. I had an Edge Juice w/ Attitude (I was part of the beta test for the 6.7L Cummins) when the truck was new, but I removed it after a few months. It seemed to be causing my DPF to get clogged with soot, and may have contributed to the fuel in the oil. I brought the truck into the dealer for the first time a few weeks ago for a recall (reprogram ECM and replace O2 sensor). I told them about fuel contamination of the oil, but they didn't seem too worried about it. Anyway, the trend is improving so maybe it will go away on its own.

 

UPDATE.....About 2 weeks ago we recieved the call from the dealership saying that the oil test came back and there was no contaminates in the oil!!! Dealership said "nothing is wrong with your truck, come pick it up". There were 4 people who saw that the oil was 1 3/4' above the full line on the dipstick. We even changed the oil, drove it 30 miles and checked the oil and it was back 1 3/4" above full line. The mechanic drained it down to the full line, let it sit and idle, then checked it and it was 1" over full line so he even seen it. Anyways....brought it home, called Edge and told them about the problem, that it started right after installing the Edge EZ Tow. They said send programer to us and we'll check it out. Sent it to them, they called back, said it tested fine ..BUT...they said they would still send us back a brand new one!! Hmmm...are we missing something here??? When new one arrived it was just the Edge EZ, not the Edge EZ Tow. We figured "whatever" and hooked it up. During the time we were waiting for the new programmer to arrive, the oil on the dipstick never moved when we drove it. After we recieved the new programmer and installed it, now we're experiencing diesel fuel dripping on ground from little black thing behind the lift pump!!!! Now that we unplugged the programmer, the dripping has stopped. Thinking about just saying "forget it" about the programmer. Any sugestions out there??

 

If there's fuel in the oil, you can smell it, especially at levels as high as you suggest! I don't know about Edge programmers, but my Bullydog doesn't use increased fuel presure unless you turn it up two levels.
The "tow" setting only uses injection event and timing to increase power according to the company. Sounds like it might be time to see a different dealer!?

Mike
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Is the "little black thing" behind the injection pump or the lift pump? If it is behind the lift pump, nothing your programmer is doing should affect this area. If it is behind the injection pump, it may be either the pressure supply line to the rail or the fuel control solenoid which has a black electrical connector and a black top. Fuel programmers only alter the injection pressure not the lift pump pressure. If it is the lift pump, it could have been disturbed by the tech while doing the fuel volume test. Wiggling lines and disconnecting and reconnecting lines can sometimes cause otherwise tight seals to loosen and leak. Keep an eye on it and if it keeps leaking, have the dealer take a look at it-no charge. Just make sure a diesel tech does the inspection to make sure the right things get looked at.

 

Keep sending the oil samples in. The dpf plugging will be an ongoing problem if you keep the programmer installed. You may want to get a dpf delete kit. Otherwise it will keep getting sooted up prematurely. If you have driven any pre-dpf trucks with a fuel programmer installed you will notice the puff of black smoke when you get on it, this cannot escape with the dpf installed. The dpf system is made to cope with the slight soot from a normally fueled engine if you have a programmer installed this extra soot is then trapped and adds to the soot load in the dpf requiring more regens which will degrade the catalyst and cause ash build up. Ash build up can only be removed by replacing the dpf-$2000 last time i checked. If the nac and the dpf are damaged it is around $5500 for the parts. Trust me, this is an unfortunate reality with the new emissions. Other than the dpf getting sooted, the turbocharger will also soot up the vgt slider ring and cause a check engine light or any number of other problems. The egr system can also get plugged with soot, along with the entire charge air cooler system, including the maf, baro, boost pressure, egr temp and pressure sensors. This soot from the egr also gets into the intake and coats the intake heater grid which causes hard cold starts. This stuff happens with engines without mods and are even worse with them. I would do some research into an alternative otherwise expect to spend big $$. Don't get me wrong, if I had a diesel I would have a programmer also but you need to know the downfalls with the new stuff.