oh yeah, forgot to mention. Friday I swapped the 95k mi pro comps for the ones I had in the garage and did the alignment last night. It feels 100% better on the road then it did. I think however that I will go back and add more caster to it as I think it likes to wander a tad bit more than I'd like. (I did control arms a couple of months back and ball parked the caster after the install).

It is nice though being able to drive 70 without any vibrations...

 

Thanx again..I have the caliper off(couldnt wait till thursday) and out of the way...unfortunately Canadian Salt Has fused the rotor to the hub...that will be an issue moving forward but I guess I can remove the rotor with the hub if I have to and then separate it after..neverseize will be my friend!! I have heard of guys freezing their ball joints first and then they are easier to press in..maybe thats worth a try too...

 

I didnt freeze mine, I did however clean up the yolk so that there would not be ann issues installing the new ones... they did go in pretty easy.

On the rotor... smack it with a rubber mallet. or a block of wood and a sledge. I'd put on a couple of lug nuts to prevent it from landing on a foot though...

edit: Or you could do what you said and take it off with the hub. then you could soak it with whatever works best for you.

 

I am continuously soaking it now between the lugs,,,where would you suggest I smack with the sledge and a block of wood? I appreciate your help totally!!

 

put 2 lugnuts on to prevent it from falling off when it breaks free, then your smack options are limited to the brake surface. I dont think you'll need to hit it too hard to break it free.

you are stuck on the area where there is a lip that comes away from the hub... you should soak that area and behind the lug nut studs...

 

I will give that a try for sure...I called rockauto to change my upper ball joint selection to the spicer/Raybestos 6154008 Upper Ball Joints with the 1 degree of adjustment for added camber..they sure do look a lot like the Carlis ones..heavier and bigger for sure..they were 87$ each..I hope I changed the order in time...thanx again!http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/ge.../6154008-4.jpg

 

ah I'd advise against the camber ball joints. you ahve a straight axle and do not need any camber adjustment. plus if you add camber into it, your DIY alginment option is out the window...

you are right... they do look like the Carli'$ for sure... If you stick with them, can you take a pic of it and post it here?

 

Ive been getting uneven tire wear even after allignments and etc and a buddy of mine a good dodge and heavy truck mechanic suggested these might help..I guess if I dont need any then the alignment guy can set it at zero and I am ok...dont you think? I just broke 3 pieces of 2x6 on that damn rotor and am getting frustrated beyond repair....any other suggestions?

 

yeah, look at the pic that shows how to get the hub off by using the power steering of the truck. See if you can get a 2x4 in there somehow and try to break it free that way (by using the trucks steering to put pressure on it)... be gentle though. I would go back & forth front to back to put pressure on it evenly. you'll only need to break it free, then it should slide off (or fall off)

edit: also, I'd get some anti-seize to put on the mating surfaces when you put it back together...

 

also, just to confirm... this is on your 2004 right? should have a floating rotor if it is... 2002 & older have a pressed on rotor IIRC