Aug 14, 2015, 05:26 PM
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- Dodge Ram 2002-Present: How to Replace Ball Joints
Step by step intructions for the do-it-yourself repairs.
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DIY Ball Joint Replacement
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Dyna Trac vs. carli
Great thread guys! I have been limping my front end along on my 06 2500 for a while now. My ball joints,u joints and wheel bearing assy's are all due. I plan on converting to a true spin type kit like Dyna Trac sells. My ? is which kit is the best value? Which kit is best? Which ball joints are best? I am hoping that by repairing with quality engineered and built parts that I wont have to be servicing these parts very often. Truck is awork truck w/ 35" tires, so I want burly components. Thanks in advance! Great Forum!
wow i have a 1500 but reading this write up and seeing how to press out the ball joints made everything so clear and saved my ***! I was lost and couldnt get the ball joints out. awesome write up
Captain
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 730
Likes: 10
From: Near Charlotte, NC
My 2000 4X4 2500 diesel is on the lift minus ball joints as I type. I could blame the original owner for all my problems. He drove it in the winter a lot all over his farm and delivered Christmas trees and ornamentals with it for 250,000 miles. But then why all the self abuse?
There was no way the wheel bearing/hub was coming out using the power steering & socket technique or by the "loosen the bolts 1/4" and tap on the bolt heads" as the manual laughingly suggested. No 'effing way. Some sage genius suggested using the sawzall. I cut the ball joints in a few minutes had the hubs and axles out of the way. The hubs are going to the machine shop to press out the old bearings.
Now to get the ball joints out. No way is a wimpy ball joint press moving them. All the other ideas failed to budge them as I farted around for a day trying to get the ball joints out before waking up 2 nights ago with this idea.
To remove lower ball joint: Use abrasive disc on the cut-off tool and cut a groove completely across the top of the ball joint, using care not to cut into axle housing. Take your cut-off tool to the bottom of the ball joint and cut up as high as you can around the joint all the way into the ball. Take your air hammer to the top of the joint and stick it in the groove and blast the ball out of the joint. Now take your sawzall and stick it in the groove and cut what remains of the ball joint vertically at each end of the groove. Take your time, you want to ALMOST cut all the way through the ball joint, but you do not want to cut into the axle tube. Use big hammer and punch to drive ball joint remains out of the axle.
Top ball joint removal uses the same idea. Cut the top of the ball joint off all the way around with the sawzall. Pop the ball up through the joint. Then cut a couple slits almost-all-the-way vertically through what remains of the ball joint. The **** it out of there.
I hope this helps someone. If I ever do one of these again, I'll save a lot of time and effort and go straight for the sawzall.
Have a nice day
Steve
There was no way the wheel bearing/hub was coming out using the power steering & socket technique or by the "loosen the bolts 1/4" and tap on the bolt heads" as the manual laughingly suggested. No 'effing way. Some sage genius suggested using the sawzall. I cut the ball joints in a few minutes had the hubs and axles out of the way. The hubs are going to the machine shop to press out the old bearings.
Now to get the ball joints out. No way is a wimpy ball joint press moving them. All the other ideas failed to budge them as I farted around for a day trying to get the ball joints out before waking up 2 nights ago with this idea.
To remove lower ball joint: Use abrasive disc on the cut-off tool and cut a groove completely across the top of the ball joint, using care not to cut into axle housing. Take your cut-off tool to the bottom of the ball joint and cut up as high as you can around the joint all the way into the ball. Take your air hammer to the top of the joint and stick it in the groove and blast the ball out of the joint. Now take your sawzall and stick it in the groove and cut what remains of the ball joint vertically at each end of the groove. Take your time, you want to ALMOST cut all the way through the ball joint, but you do not want to cut into the axle tube. Use big hammer and punch to drive ball joint remains out of the axle.
Top ball joint removal uses the same idea. Cut the top of the ball joint off all the way around with the sawzall. Pop the ball up through the joint. Then cut a couple slits almost-all-the-way vertically through what remains of the ball joint. The **** it out of there.
I hope this helps someone. If I ever do one of these again, I'll save a lot of time and effort and go straight for the sawzall.
Have a nice day
Steve
Steve has the link to this at the end of his first post.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Well last night was my turn. I am doing Upper and lower ball joints, U-joints, tie rod ends and sway bar links on a 2004 ram 2500.
I followed this post and was successful removing my hubs. At first i was afraid of hurting my power steering but a friend mentioned its not much differant than hitting the stops. once i realized that i tried a little harder and even though nothing was moving i kept moving my socket to all 4 bolts 1 at a time working my way around then the hub finally came loose. My wife sat in the truck and turned the wheel back and forth for me while i moved the socket which made it much faster. I got the axles out and i am taking them in today for new u-joints. then this evening i will start on removing the ball joints. Thank you for all the help from these posts. i hope the ball joint removal goes as well.
I followed this post and was successful removing my hubs. At first i was afraid of hurting my power steering but a friend mentioned its not much differant than hitting the stops. once i realized that i tried a little harder and even though nothing was moving i kept moving my socket to all 4 bolts 1 at a time working my way around then the hub finally came loose. My wife sat in the truck and turned the wheel back and forth for me while i moved the socket which made it much faster. I got the axles out and i am taking them in today for new u-joints. then this evening i will start on removing the ball joints. Thank you for all the help from these posts. i hope the ball joint removal goes as well.
Thread Starter
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Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,946
Likes: 309
the u joints are not that hard... couple of sockets that are the right size and a hammer will pop them right out. one socket as a reciever and one as a driver. pop out the retaining ring and give it a shot. worst case is you take it in anyway.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
I got the ball joints out, I am actually nervous about how easy they came out. I have a feeling the previous owner had just done them, and my new ones appear to be the exact same manufacturer, so AM I GOING TO DO THIS AGAIN IN 1 YEAR?????? AAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!
I also removed the sway bar links and all the tie rod ends, so today after work its time to re-install everything. U-joints are done and ready to put in, i have all the other parts checked and ready to go, I will post when i am done in case anyone is curious how it went, oh and then i get to do a radiator wahoo, just how i wanted to spend my labor day weekend......doing labor on my plow truck.
I wish it was a lift kit i was installing!!!!!!!!!!!!
I also removed the sway bar links and all the tie rod ends, so today after work its time to re-install everything. U-joints are done and ready to put in, i have all the other parts checked and ready to go, I will post when i am done in case anyone is curious how it went, oh and then i get to do a radiator wahoo, just how i wanted to spend my labor day weekend......doing labor on my plow truck.
I wish it was a lift kit i was installing!!!!!!!!!!!!
Registered User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Berea, KY
Good Luck
Steve
Last edited by smcmanus; Sep 5, 2011 at 04:03 PM. Reason: dummy me
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Warning...Warning....when removing speed sensor be sure to use plenty of penetrating oil before hand, Do NOT just pry them out. YES i was very gentle but not gentle enough. the alignment shop said the outer collar of the speed sensor is still stuck in the hole of the hub so now i need to new speed sensors. $77 each and also take it all apart again to get to it to remove them. Wahoo!!!!!!!!!!! Can you say ammatuer mistake?