Hey all...
A local tire and auto center with 37 locations (Dobbs, St. Louis) told my wife that my A/C compressor clutch had an open circuit. Being a commercial and industrial HVAC Mechanic Veteran and current supervisor, I was immediately skeptical. He wanted nearly $1000.00 to replace the compressor as he said the clutch is not replaceable by itself. I immediately assumed that I was low on refrigerant and depressed the schrader valve on the suction line and found what seemed to be adequate pressure. I assumed the clutch would not engage due to low pressure. I dont have a problem changing the compressor, accumulator, and metering device by myself, but I do not have the knowledge to know whether or not if the clutch is replaceable alone, if there are tests I can do on my own to determine if he is right, or where to go to get cheap reliable automotive parts.
As I said, I have 15 years experience in commercial/industrial HVAC, but not automotive. Any help that anyone could provide would be appreciated. I also would be willing to trade services/advice for help. If your home or business is in need of HVAC service...I am more than qualified.
A local tire and auto center with 37 locations (Dobbs, St. Louis) told my wife that my A/C compressor clutch had an open circuit. Being a commercial and industrial HVAC Mechanic Veteran and current supervisor, I was immediately skeptical. He wanted nearly $1000.00 to replace the compressor as he said the clutch is not replaceable by itself. I immediately assumed that I was low on refrigerant and depressed the schrader valve on the suction line and found what seemed to be adequate pressure. I assumed the clutch would not engage due to low pressure. I dont have a problem changing the compressor, accumulator, and metering device by myself, but I do not have the knowledge to know whether or not if the clutch is replaceable alone, if there are tests I can do on my own to determine if he is right, or where to go to get cheap reliable automotive parts.
As I said, I have 15 years experience in commercial/industrial HVAC, but not automotive. Any help that anyone could provide would be appreciated. I also would be willing to trade services/advice for help. If your home or business is in need of HVAC service...I am more than qualified.
All Star
The clutch is not replaceable alone.
This is not due to the manufacturer, Visteon, it's due to Chrysler not wanting spare parts available for this item.
$1000 bucks is a rip off though.
The book rate on the labor is 2.5 hrs to change the compressor and a complete compressor is less than $300.....$288 is I remember right.
If it's more than $550 for the repair, you're getting hosed.
This is not due to the manufacturer, Visteon, it's due to Chrysler not wanting spare parts available for this item.
$1000 bucks is a rip off though.
The book rate on the labor is 2.5 hrs to change the compressor and a complete compressor is less than $300.....$288 is I remember right.
If it's more than $550 for the repair, you're getting hosed.
Record Breaker
Coal train is correct. I am going tomorrow morning to have my compressor replaced at my local dealer. They are charging me $299 for the NEW compressor and 2 hours labor to replace it. I diagnosed it with the help of Coaltrain and some other friends and the dealer confirmed my diagnosis.
Basically you can do 2 tests to confirm the fault is with the clutch coil. 1) Disconnect the plug at the back of the A/C compressor and check the coil (compressor side) for resistance, it should be 3.2 ohms. The other test you can do is turn the A/C on with the engine running and check the other side of the plug for power (should be battery voltage12.xx volts). The second test may not work for you if the ECM (computer) has locked out the system because of the fault. The dealer performed test number 2 with his scan tool commanding the coil to be energized. I hope this helps you out..
Basically you can do 2 tests to confirm the fault is with the clutch coil. 1) Disconnect the plug at the back of the A/C compressor and check the coil (compressor side) for resistance, it should be 3.2 ohms. The other test you can do is turn the A/C on with the engine running and check the other side of the plug for power (should be battery voltage12.xx volts). The second test may not work for you if the ECM (computer) has locked out the system because of the fault. The dealer performed test number 2 with his scan tool commanding the coil to be energized. I hope this helps you out..