I owned the truck for 4yrs bought it with 40k on it, at 60k both front axle u joints and 1 hub bearing went bad, dealer repaired, then u joint in the back middle went bad. I have a ghost rattle on the right side front every time I hit a bump ( can't find it), Now at 110k my ignition switch won't turn off acc unless you push the key forward after you turn it off , ran my batt dead and I don't know if you know this, but this truck will not charge a dead batt, period. Now my back door lock on driver side stopped working, my dash just cracked on passenger side top. My diver side axle u joint is bad again, I'm trying to do it myself, I'm very mechanically inclined, but I can't get the darn bearing hub off so I can change the u joint. Is there c clips holding the axles in the front of these AAm housings? Even after all this, I still love this truck, but I have never had so much problems with a truck, and this is a high end truck. I'm a die hard mopar man but dodge should have done better than this!

 

First off, sorry to hear about your dodge problems! Heard about people having problens with u-joints & hubs, don't under stand why they go bad in a short period of time. My 05 cummins w/ 178,000 mls. has been good to me, just replaced my hubs only because i broke 4 wheel studs!(wanted to replace all 16 front studs, but found out they were $15 per stud & nut, outch! so for another $200. i replaced both hubs.) Remove 4 bolts behind rotor, remove axle nut and get a good 3 arm puller & thats it. Make sure u use anti seize when you reinstall. As for the u joints, have never had one go bad!! Good luck - Advanec auto $199. per hub, name brand!

 

Thanks very much for the reply. I have the 4 bolts in the back off, I even have the rotor and the axle nut off, but it looks like if I put a puller on it, will just pull the stud hub off (with the axle nut off) ? What am I missing? Thanks in advance.

 

Put one of the bolts back in the backside partially. Put a socket, or some other spacer in between the bolt and axle, and turn the steering wheel. You may have to go both ways with another bolt in the other side. That should force the hub out. Best to have a helper for this.

 

I got the hub bearing off today , fixed the U joint it's back together. I tried the 3 arm puller and snapped the arm. I tried the spacer and turn the steering trick, and didn't work ,would not move. With the bolts still backed out a little I smacked it with 3 lb mini sledge, didn't move (put a socket over the bolt, so not mess the head up) Finally I got out my impact chisel, chop sawed the point end so as to have just a rod, used it on the bolts, and it loosen up, then put a wedge on the impact stuck it on the corners of bearing in the front of bearing and it came off. I did take the axle nut off. I then needed a press for the u joint , sounded like a shotgun when they broke loose. no hammering these baby's out. The axle nut is 1-11/16 and you better have an impact 500 lb was just enough. I'm going to weld a socket to the rod for my chisel impact next time. I used allot of anti seize, My back up plan was to use a mini bottle jack to push on the bolts, and I test that ,and it would have worked. Thanks for the response all the best...

 

Very lucky you got them out I tried everything to get the wheel bearings off.
Finally I just cut them with a torches and bought new ones I wasn't going to keep waisting my time trying to get them off. Plus one was bad anyways. but the problem was the drivers side shaft joint was bad