I'm considering a lift and have some questions (never lifted a truck before). Sorry for all the questions, but trying to learn the pros and cons to help me decide the amount of lift or even if I will lift my truck.

This would be for an '04 QC 4x4 diesel w/ auto tranny. Stock engine (no mods).


I see mention of "driveline vibration may occur" as a caveat on lift kits.
What's the frequency of experiencing this vibration and what is the cause?

What is the usual fix if you get vibration?

What is the lift amount before one should consider high-angle u-joints?

Do high-angle u-joints last longer than "regular" u-joints or do they simply provide the clearance for operating in higher angles? How often will I be looking to replace u-joints on say, a 6" lift?

Why do lift kits say to never use suspension lifts in conjunction with body lifts? Is there something bad about a body lift?

What are gap guards when talking about body lifts?

Why are heim joints illegal for steering components?

Are heim joints stronger than tierod ends?

When a heim joint fails, what is the most common type of failure (does the ball separate from the casing, or do does the casing break off?)

Are the "safety washers" on single-shear heims reliable for keeping the rod end captured on the bolt/pin if the casing separates from the ball?

Do heim joints wear out sooner than tirerod ends?

How large of a lift block on the rear before you should seriously consider ladder bars to reduce or eliminate axle wrap?

For those who have eliminated their swaybars, how much effect has this had on cornering on street driving? How does the body roll compare to with the swaybar?

What offset and backspacing on wheels will allow 36x15.50x18 tires to clear at full steering (assuming a 6" suspension lift and 3" body lift)?

 

i don't profess to know a lot about lifts, but i think the driveline vib is because it's put at an unnatural angle. for the rest i think that same theory applies, most of the stock steering components will now be at a more extreme angle than stock, and hence will wear or break prematurely. i just installed a Lorenz 2.25 suspension setup, and i really like it. it gives me about 3 up front and a couple in back (truck sits level), and it is setup in mind of the stock geometry. my main concern was better ride and handling over rough terrain not just lift for looks. i would consider what you really want to accomplish and go from there.

 

I deleted some of your questions because I do not know how to answer them correctly I have had so many lifted trucks I am tired of them now so I have a 2 stock trucks

1) body lifts suck Why it makes the radiator Higher then it needs to be and when the truck flexes. My trucks fans have always hit the radiator or bashed the shroud into the radiator. You can take shroud off but that helps the flow of air through the radiator. Lets say you lift your truck 6 inches and then the body 3 more their is 9 inches to top heavy and may flip over if at right angle of hill or turn..

2) I wouldn't do a body lift so you would need those..

3) Heim joints are totally illegaland not DOT approved.. Lets say you get into a wreck and someone dies Well the state brings out a DOT police officer and You have them on your truck.. They are not DOT approved... Now they list that on the accident report. Your insurance company IE state farm Your not supposed to have them on your truck. " We are not covering this clam" ... Now somebody is getting sued.. and its You

4) depends on who you ask.. I have no comment

5) when they fail the end will split and slice the tire and cause a blow out

6) no Blocks those suck. Dont be like ppl stuck in the mud with blocks that have fallen or cracked and broken and now you will need a tow truck to get home and pull you out of the mud That was a crappy night and day 18 hours later I got home..

7) if you want to disconnect your swaybar I recommend the disconnect links so you can remove it when you want to and when its needed you can put it connect it again the sway bar stays in place you remove the links and install ones with Pins that you remove and then the split link slides into a piece that is mounted on the frame and holds the sway bar up out of the way.. Seen them on Jeep Wranglers not dodge truck have to google it or look on 4wheel drive lift kit site

Now its time to get legal if you lift your truck make sure your insurance company knows about it.. and your head lights and bumpers are at the right height if not then you will find yourself getting tickets. or if you get into a wreck insurance company wont cover the claim Your getting sued

Along time ago (12 years atleast) my friend was sued for 250k because a drunk driver ran a red light and hit him well then the state came out and inspected his truck because of the Fatal accident it failed bumper was above 36 inches headlights was over 56 inches Insurance company denied the clam because they new nothing about the lift kit and body lift and they took everything House cars trucks and paycheck.. I would hate to have that happen to anyone else. Check with your state laws and rules before you do anything be safe not sorry

 

You bring up some good points about insurance for sure.

I haven't decided anything as of yet, that's why I'm asking the questions.

Anything I do to my truck will be primarily for looks as I don't do any offroading with it, and have no desire to do so.

I understand the higher I go, the more top heavy.

Will definitely read state laws for heights, but trust me, I'm in the minority in my area when it comes to truck height. Many trucks around here that easily exceed 10-12 inches of lift and running on 40" tires. Never seen a lifted truck pulled over here.

Many of the parts I have looked at and considering are probably overkill for street driving (like the Thuren heavy duty steering kit), but in addition to looks, I want parts that aren't going to need replacing ever again, or at least not any time soon, where possible (the Carli upper and lower balljoints are definitely on the list).

I know heims are illegal for steering components for street driving, but I'm just trying to learn why. I did read somewhere the reason is becaurse if they fail, it's a total failure and the rod comes undone. That's why I was asking about the most common type of failure. I understand the reasons why a failure can be catastrophic, but isn't that the case with "regular" tirerod ends also?

A tierod end is basically a cup that holds a ball with a pin on it. Couldn't that pin shear, or the ball end come out of the cup? Seems to me a heim is no worse in terms of potential failure, at least by design. Heims can also be set up as double shear, which will retain the rod if the ball and case separate, and single shear uses special washers on the open end of the bolt/pin for the same purpose.

Offroad guys sure seem to like the heims. I dunno, like I said, just trying to understand the where's and why's.