I am seriously thinking of throwing down the money and getting a 2010 3500. Does anyone on here have one with the dually delete? I'm also wanting to pick it up shiny and new with all the mods installed so I'm not nickeling and dimeing it after I get it. I'm thinking 5" suspension lift, a 3" set of pucks, 37's wrapped around some shiny things and a programer. Is there anything I'm missing? I saw a delete pipe on Ebay and wondering if that's a good investment also. Is the 4.11 the right choice for the bigger rubber or will the cummins not notice the difference when it comes to MPG? I travel around the country for my job and my not quite 2yo 08 2500 hemi has 46k on it. It's a damn good thing the company picks up the tab on the fuel bill because at 10MPG running heavy, I couldn't afford to drive it. I want to do it right the first time and any input you people have would be greatly appreciated. Hopefully when Dodge lets the incentives out, there will be one big-*** white truck joining the club here. Thanks for your help in advance.

 

YES YES AND YES
if that is what you want get it. Most people on here will say that 6.7 is a dog well it is not going to beat around the bush about it. With a EGR and particulate filter delete its opens it up and becomes a beast... NOW with the filter missing you will need a programmer to fool the computer so it thinks its their. So if that pipe don't come with it then don't buy it... Check out Rich at Doghousediesel.com he is a vendor here also... You may want to check with him first and see what he has for it... If I was buying a 2010 I would want to know what i can buy and what they dont offer yet...
Programmer your looking at a smarty for sure 5.9 cr and 6.7s love those... Trans upgrades I am not sure what is the 2010. 68rfe????? I think they are still using that trans...
With the 37's 4.10s you will notice a mpg gain. But that is all how you drive. If you drive it like you stole it then mpg's are down the drain... If you drive like grandpa then mpg's are higher...
If you want really good fuel mileage then do a hub conversion those get better mileage with them... You take off your old hubs and add a new spindle with bearings axle shafts. What that does is stops all the moving parts while your driving down the road frt drive shaft and frt axle shafts... downside Price and its not automatic 4x4 you have to get out and manually lock the hubs..
Hope that helps Check out Rich at Doghouse diesel he can point you where you need to go. His name on here is CoalTrain shoot him a PM or I am sure he will chime in on this one also

 

Well, unfortunatey, some of the things you want are sort of mutually exclusive.

1 - You don't need a dually delete. The 3500 is available as a SRW.

2 - Having all that crap installed at the dealer before you pick it up will cost you DOUBLE what it will be in the aftermarket.

3 - Fuel mileage and 37's with 8" of lift.....doesn't matter what gears you go with the mileage isn't gonna be great. That's a brick moving down the highway.

Mostly though, if you're planning on doing ANY modifications to that truck, THE first thing you need to do is get gauges in it.

There are 3 critical ones on the common rail trucks (4 if you have an automatic)

1 - EGT
2 - Rail Pressure
3 - Boost
4 - Trans Temp for auto's

Before you do anything else, you want gauges in the truck.

That and wait a few thousand miles to make sure the truck doesn't have any issues, because once you begin to mod, you can kiss that warranty good bye.