Rollin' Thunder - '93 Dodge Ram
#1
Rollin' Thunder - '93 Dodge Ram
Hi,
I'd like to share our '93 Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel with you guys. We bought it a while back and recently decided to upgrade the appearance a bit. Aside from new paint and a one-off faux brush stainless grill, it's been kept relatively stock.
Cheers,
Nick
I'd like to share our '93 Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel with you guys. We bought it a while back and recently decided to upgrade the appearance a bit. Aside from new paint and a one-off faux brush stainless grill, it's been kept relatively stock.
Cheers,
Nick
Last edited by iNVisionPrototypes; 06-21-2010 at 01:54 PM.
#3
looks great, coal train is right a couple simple and fairly cheap mods, and they become very nice to drive, with the things coaltrain mentioned plus a mild set of injectors (40hp or so) i have been neting 20-25mpg's on all of my coustomers trucks, the biggest bang for the buck tho is the 3200 gov spring
#4
#6
Thanks guys!
I'm a design/fabrication guy. Occasionally, I do an engine rebuild...but never gotten into fuel injection pumps.
60HP at 2400RPM...ouch... Well we never really thought about getting that much more power out of the truck...however, I'd like to learn more about these mods...fuel pin, 3200RPM? gov spring, turbine housing... etc It would sure help when pulling on the HWY.
What's involved and would it adversely affect an engine that has 500000km on it with an A/T?
Tell me more along with a ballpark biggest bang for your buck price
Thanks again.
I'm a design/fabrication guy. Occasionally, I do an engine rebuild...but never gotten into fuel injection pumps.
60HP at 2400RPM...ouch... Well we never really thought about getting that much more power out of the truck...however, I'd like to learn more about these mods...fuel pin, 3200RPM? gov spring, turbine housing... etc It would sure help when pulling on the HWY.
What's involved and would it adversely affect an engine that has 500000km on it with an A/T?
Tell me more along with a ballpark biggest bang for your buck price
Thanks again.
#7
The best thing to do on it, and the best part is it's cheap, is the governor spring.
What happens with the stock spring is that it starts pulling fuel back at 2100 RPM's, which is right where the torque curve levels off and it kills the upper end of the powerband.
The governor spring simply allows the engine to use the entire 3200 RPM range.
It reall makes it feel like a different truck.
The fuel pin and the turbine housing are good to do together. The pin gives it a little more fuel and smaller turbine housing allows it to spool up MUCH faster. I want to say the stock turbine housing on those 89-93's is like 19 or 21 cm....it's rediculous. Put a 14cm housing on it and it spools up SO much nicer.
We did a customers '93 a few weeks bak with those same mods and it literally felt like a second motor was added to it. I was really impressed how it responded for that little work.
What happens with the stock spring is that it starts pulling fuel back at 2100 RPM's, which is right where the torque curve levels off and it kills the upper end of the powerband.
The governor spring simply allows the engine to use the entire 3200 RPM range.
It reall makes it feel like a different truck.
The fuel pin and the turbine housing are good to do together. The pin gives it a little more fuel and smaller turbine housing allows it to spool up MUCH faster. I want to say the stock turbine housing on those 89-93's is like 19 or 21 cm....it's rediculous. Put a 14cm housing on it and it spools up SO much nicer.
We did a customers '93 a few weeks bak with those same mods and it literally felt like a second motor was added to it. I was really impressed how it responded for that little work.
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#8
#9
Absolutely.
It's not much more than removing a few screws and readjusting the idle when you're done.
The only part that is remotely a pain in the butts is pulling off the two tamper resistant caps on the fuel screws.
If you're going to do that, seriously, do the fuel pin too. You have to take it out anyways and you end up with about a 40 HP & 70 ft/lb gain.
This is all you're replacing if you decide to do it.
http://www.dieselperformance.com/ind...uct/index/186P
It's not much more than removing a few screws and readjusting the idle when you're done.
The only part that is remotely a pain in the butts is pulling off the two tamper resistant caps on the fuel screws.
If you're going to do that, seriously, do the fuel pin too. You have to take it out anyways and you end up with about a 40 HP & 70 ft/lb gain.
This is all you're replacing if you decide to do it.
http://www.dieselperformance.com/ind...uct/index/186P