My "problem" started months ago. First, my Banks 6-Gun was setting off P0336 (CKP Sensor) on occasion. The code would clear on its own....so no big deal. Then I noticed the truck was starting slower than normal, so I replaced the batteries and rebuilt the starter....helped slightly, but still not "normal." The starts became VERY slow again to the point where it took a few tries to get it going. I pulled the Banks 6-Gun module out and reset it. Once the "transmission learning procedure" for the module was complete....THE TRUCK STARTED LIKE NEW!

So, for a few weeks I was walking around so proud of myself that I had solved my starting issues. Day after day, week after week, PERFECT starts. Then, one day I noticed a slow start when I left home for work....and even slower when I started it to get home that day. That was the last time my truck fired

When I try to start the truck now I get nothing....no cranking, no clicking, nothing. In fact, when I leave the key in the "on" position all my accessories (radio, vents, etc) work perfectly....but when I crank it all that dies. The error codes are as follows;

P0237 - Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor Low
P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor High
P0069 - Boost Key on Rationality (No idea what this one means!)

So, I used the bypass plug provided by Banks and plugged into the wiring harness. The Banks module was removed. I also "reset" the ECM by removing the neg terminal from both batteries for 15 minutes.......no help.

Theory #1 - Banks 6-Gun module DIED after about 6 years of use...and took the ECM with it.

Theory #2 - There is a short somewhere in the wire harness (either the stock harness or Banks harness).

So now my question is do I try and replace the ECM? Do these parts "fail" frequently or can they typically just be re-flashed? I REALLY REALLY don't want to take my truck to the dealer to debug an electrical issue....God knows how much that would cost me!

Any ideas are appreciated. Please note that I have already checked my batteries, battery cables, and starter cables. Also...the fact that it was working PERFECT for weeks and then crapped out, leads me to believe there must have been an electrical failure somewhere.

Thanks.

 

that sounds exactly like a bad battery cable, i konw you said you checked them but how did you do it? i have seen a lot of occations where a normal looking cable can fail in the connectors, even tho it looks ok and shows connection, it wont flow any ammount of current, hit the key so everything goes dead, then test all connections with a volt meter to see if there is a bad cable

 

Thanks for the reply. I did the usual visual inspection, cleaned off corrosion on both batteries terminals (and connectors). I also checked for continuity using a multimeter. I did the same for the starter cable.

In your experience have you ever seen this type of work, not work, work, not work behavior from a bad cable? In order words, would a "bad" cable seemingly come back to life for a few weeks after months of rough starts?

Thanks again.

 

yes, if moved right it can regain connection for a bit, then eventually loose it again