replacing rear pinion seal
#1
replacing rear pinion seal
i replaced my rear pinion seal today. i tried to follow the directions of other threads in here.
just a write up and observations for those who still need to do it.
first off, you only need a few simple tools.
- 15mm socket
- three jaw puller (rented from autozone for free)
- rear pinion seal, got from napa
- 36mm socket with breaker bar
remove drive shaft four bolts
i tried to scribe where the nut and shaft line up, but after having to use heat, i could not see them anymore, so if you have a punch, make a dimple that you know will line up even if you have to use heat.
once shaft is down, and nut is off, dont waste your time with a hammer, just get a three jaw puller from the autostore, its free and saves you all that needles pounding. i was pounding for a while, but gave up.
old seal just pry around it, and it will come out with a little persuasion. new seal just goes in with a hammer. grease yoke and hammer into place. i used a little grease to get it on smoothly.
now here is the part where i think i **** the bed, because i could not tell where i scribed the nut, i just put it on where i thought it was supposed to be. once together to return the puller, it made noise under deceleration. got back to house, took off drive shaft to feel the rear end shaft was a bit loose, so i tightened down until i am pretty sure it was marked.
easy job, with the heat for the nut and the puller for the yoke.
i did not realize how much diff fluid i have lost, i put in 750ml, so that means it was that much low. after everything i was done, i gunked the entire underside of the bed and parts down there to get it clean. there was a lot of grease that was slung everywhere.
just a write up and observations for those who still need to do it.
first off, you only need a few simple tools.
- 15mm socket
- three jaw puller (rented from autozone for free)
- rear pinion seal, got from napa
- 36mm socket with breaker bar
remove drive shaft four bolts
i tried to scribe where the nut and shaft line up, but after having to use heat, i could not see them anymore, so if you have a punch, make a dimple that you know will line up even if you have to use heat.
once shaft is down, and nut is off, dont waste your time with a hammer, just get a three jaw puller from the autostore, its free and saves you all that needles pounding. i was pounding for a while, but gave up.
old seal just pry around it, and it will come out with a little persuasion. new seal just goes in with a hammer. grease yoke and hammer into place. i used a little grease to get it on smoothly.
now here is the part where i think i **** the bed, because i could not tell where i scribed the nut, i just put it on where i thought it was supposed to be. once together to return the puller, it made noise under deceleration. got back to house, took off drive shaft to feel the rear end shaft was a bit loose, so i tightened down until i am pretty sure it was marked.
easy job, with the heat for the nut and the puller for the yoke.
i did not realize how much diff fluid i have lost, i put in 750ml, so that means it was that much low. after everything i was done, i gunked the entire underside of the bed and parts down there to get it clean. there was a lot of grease that was slung everywhere.