Possible turbo problem
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 13
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From: Idaho
Yes a good repair manual should state when a tool is needed to be used.
You will need the gear puller for the injection pump not the lift pump. I would go after and test the lift pump first as dt75 suggested. They are a weak point and common item to go out. Gotta be sure fuel is getting to the injection pump first. Mine went out at about 70K with no warning, stranded me in the middle of a busy intersection. Dealer towed, replaced and put the new one in the fuel tank for me all under the 100K engine warranty.
As dodgetrucker75 states "however with the starting issue it may be a failed lift pump, which should be located below the filter on the side of the engine, start with the filter, and if it doesnt help, open the drain on the bottom of the filter housing, bump the key as if trying to start, and leave in the run position, this will make the pump run, if a continious stream is coming from the drain, the pump is ok, if not you need a new pump"
Do his suggested test looking for the constant stream of fuel out of the drain tube. Highlighted area is also the way you prime the system if you run out of fuel or when changing the filter.
You will need the gear puller for the injection pump not the lift pump. I would go after and test the lift pump first as dt75 suggested. They are a weak point and common item to go out. Gotta be sure fuel is getting to the injection pump first. Mine went out at about 70K with no warning, stranded me in the middle of a busy intersection. Dealer towed, replaced and put the new one in the fuel tank for me all under the 100K engine warranty.
As dodgetrucker75 states "however with the starting issue it may be a failed lift pump, which should be located below the filter on the side of the engine, start with the filter, and if it doesnt help, open the drain on the bottom of the filter housing, bump the key as if trying to start, and leave in the run position, this will make the pump run, if a continious stream is coming from the drain, the pump is ok, if not you need a new pump"
Do his suggested test looking for the constant stream of fuel out of the drain tube. Highlighted area is also the way you prime the system if you run out of fuel or when changing the filter.
Record Breaker
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: live oak, ca
Yes a good repair manual should state when a tool is needed to be used.
You will need the gear puller for the injection pump not the lift pump. I would go after and test the lift pump first as dt75 suggested. They are a weak point and common item to go out. Gotta be sure fuel is getting to the injection pump first. Mine went out at about 70K with no warning, stranded me in the middle of a busy intersection. Dealer towed, replaced and put the new one in the fuel tank for me all under the 100K engine warranty.
As dodgetrucker75 states "however with the starting issue it may be a failed lift pump, which should be located below the filter on the side of the engine, start with the filter, and if it doesnt help, open the drain on the bottom of the filter housing, bump the key as if trying to start, and leave in the run position, this will make the pump run, if a continious stream is coming from the drain, the pump is ok, if not you need a new pump"
Do his suggested test looking for the constant stream of fuel out of the drain tube. Highlighted area is also the way you prime the system if you run out of fuel or when changing the filter.
You will need the gear puller for the injection pump not the lift pump. I would go after and test the lift pump first as dt75 suggested. They are a weak point and common item to go out. Gotta be sure fuel is getting to the injection pump first. Mine went out at about 70K with no warning, stranded me in the middle of a busy intersection. Dealer towed, replaced and put the new one in the fuel tank for me all under the 100K engine warranty.
As dodgetrucker75 states "however with the starting issue it may be a failed lift pump, which should be located below the filter on the side of the engine, start with the filter, and if it doesnt help, open the drain on the bottom of the filter housing, bump the key as if trying to start, and leave in the run position, this will make the pump run, if a continious stream is coming from the drain, the pump is ok, if not you need a new pump"
Do his suggested test looking for the constant stream of fuel out of the drain tube. Highlighted area is also the way you prime the system if you run out of fuel or when changing the filter.
Last edited by dodgetrucker75; Feb 7, 2011 at 01:19 PM.
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Registered User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 39
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Finally got the truck towed home last night and today i went out to test the lift pump i also put a new fuel filter in and at first without the key in the ignition fuel was coming out as a steady stream then stopped a minute later, this was just draining what was in the filter housing right? then i did what you told me to do bump the key and the lift pump should start and no fuel came out at all, also if the battery is low would that make a difference??
you dont need any special tools to change the lift pump, its just two fuel lines, a couple bolts, and a wire plug, very simple, if failed, i would recomend something along the line of a fass DDRP ---->http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FASS-...Q5fAccessories the 03-04 have the same pump setup as the 2nd gen 24v's and are natorious for failing, if you go anywhere for a replacement pump, they will try to sell you a convertion kit, which puts the new pump in the fuel tank, very expensive and time consuming, not to mention they are known to fail also, the DDRP is a great fix and upgrade
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Registered User
Joined: Nov 2010
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The only thing im worried about now is if the truck has already had the relocation kit installed, how would i check if this was done?
