Lift Pump Pressure Test
#1
Lift Pump Pressure Test
Howdy;
I have an 01 2500. I am a Ford tech, and was at work with nothing to do the other day so i decided to hook a pressure gauge to the fuel system to check the lift pump, however I'm not sure where exactly the proper place is to plug the gauge. For this test I just plugged into the little port on the front of the fuel filter housing. Will this location work for an accurate reading of the lift pump? It was showing about 15-17 psi at idle and according to my spectators it dropped to 5psi at WOT, but they said it "looked" like it wanted to drop a little farther as it was climbing. Is it better to slowly add the throttle to WOT, or just give it to it? it is the factory lift pump, truck has 71,000 on it.
Thanks in Advance.
I have an 01 2500. I am a Ford tech, and was at work with nothing to do the other day so i decided to hook a pressure gauge to the fuel system to check the lift pump, however I'm not sure where exactly the proper place is to plug the gauge. For this test I just plugged into the little port on the front of the fuel filter housing. Will this location work for an accurate reading of the lift pump? It was showing about 15-17 psi at idle and according to my spectators it dropped to 5psi at WOT, but they said it "looked" like it wanted to drop a little farther as it was climbing. Is it better to slowly add the throttle to WOT, or just give it to it? it is the factory lift pump, truck has 71,000 on it.
Thanks in Advance.
#2
This is where you can hook up the pressure tester.
You can see the schreader valve cap. This is where to test the pressure for the lift pump. The pressure needs to be at least 14psi at idle, preferably more. This way the fuel helps in cooling the VP.
The stock lift pumps can barely keep up at WOT, this is the reason that most change them out. Also, most of the OEM lift pumps can fail, even though you can hear it run, it may be broken. The impeller on the OEM pump breaks, comes off, etc.
As to the going slowly or full bore, that is up to you. Here is some interesting reading about gauges for you: Gauge Information
You can see the schreader valve cap. This is where to test the pressure for the lift pump. The pressure needs to be at least 14psi at idle, preferably more. This way the fuel helps in cooling the VP.
The stock lift pumps can barely keep up at WOT, this is the reason that most change them out. Also, most of the OEM lift pumps can fail, even though you can hear it run, it may be broken. The impeller on the OEM pump breaks, comes off, etc.
As to the going slowly or full bore, that is up to you. Here is some interesting reading about gauges for you: Gauge Information
#3
Thanks for the input. That is the valve i had the gauge hooked to. I need to check again just to confirm my findings. What are some good lift pumps? I can do the installation myself, but what will the part(s) run? I have been thinking about gauges, considering Trans temp, boost, and fuel pressure when I can afford them, but I guess if I had any extra money, it would go to this truck in some way or another.
#4
For a lift pump, you have several options. The cheapest is an Airtex, then Raptor, AirDog, F.A.S.S, etc. The easiest is the fuel pressure, you can get an oil pressure gauge as a temporary gauge, this is a inexpensive route to go, just be careful about running the line into the cab. Then this way, you will know what your fuel pressure is.
#6
FF housing. On my truck, the only thing on this block is another block about 1 to 1.5 inches deep, and the banjo fittings attach to it, but there is no "upside down dome" shape under it that indicates there is any pump action there. So is mine in the tank? has the work already been done?
thanks
#7