Well, I've gone through THREE IP's on this truck since buying it in '02 with 70K on it. Truck now has 180K.
Getting rediculous.

BUT, anyway, I've decided to do it myself this time around. Get to know it, how it is done, save a few bucks and said I did it. lol

Truck will be sold after this time around.

It's a 2001 HO 6sp manual.

I've looked at most of the videos and written material, made sure gear was in the TDC position, etc.,etc.

Got the pump out and my question is what should I replace, if anything, while the pump is out?

I have not seen anything written on what the process is to start truck once I get the new one in.
Do I simply loosten the HP fittings closest to injectors until it starts to pop?
Is the IP filled w/fuel when I get it?
Is trying to start truck on a new IP w/no fuel going to harm it in any way?

How many times can the HP lines be tightened and loosened before they should be replaced?



Thanks

 

Nothing else needs to be replaced when we swap pumps it sounds to me like you have a low fuel pressure problem (weak lift pump) causing the vp44 to pick up the slack on drawing fuel from the tank making the vp44 over heat and ruin the pump. My advice is buy a fass or other high volume lift pump. As far as priming after install. The new fuel pump will not come with fuel in it. Connect all you fuel lines at the pump. Towards the front of the pump is going to be a banjo bolt its gonna be a 19mm/three quater bolt head loosen it and bump the key dont crank the engine over just bump the starter the lift pump will run for 15 seconds watch for fuel to leak out around the bolt once the fuel starts coming out you will see lots of bubbles do this several times until you see no bubbles then tighten the banjo bolt. Then lossin injector lines 1,3,6 at the head they will also be 19mm/three quater. crank the engine over untill you get fuel coming out from around the injector lines you loosend. Then tighten em down and it should start. It will more than likly start with the three lines loose. I know it sounds like a long process but you can prime them in no time. i do it all the time. Just remember the injector line dont need to be gorilla tight good and snug is just fine. And ive not scene injector lines fail from loosing them and tighten back up alot. I mainly see them fail when people gorilla them and crack em. Hope this helps man good luck.

 

Hmm, I'll check everything for cracks up near the injectors.
I've had an extra fuel helper pump that pushes 15-20psi (and assuming sufficient volume) for the past 5 years.
Problem or my question would be why does the fuel pressure gauge always read nice 15 under a load 20 under idle when the IP dies?
Is there such thing as a 'false' reading on a FP gauge? Meaning, if the volume is not enough it would still read good pressure?
I HAVE run low pressures before and the filter was getting clogged.
SO I have doubts its the fuel supply pressure/volume unless my pressure gauge is faulty?
This is the main reason I installed it, to let me know when the pressure was getting low enough that I need to replace either the filter or factory lift pump (in the tank).

 

Their could be a faulty gauge but i kinda dout it. And your exactly right if your pressure are that high under a load i dout you have a flow problem. You have somthing goin on though somewhere becuase thats way too many high pressure fuel pumps in that amout of time. If you so decide to keep the truck i would go away from the helper pump and install a fass fuel system. I would also run about 8 oz or so of marvel mystery oil everytime you fill up to give the pump some extra lubrication. Do you have any power adders on the truck? And dont worry to much about the high pressure fuel lines if they were cracked you would have fuel sprayin all over and would have a dead cyclinder